Since we failed at playing tourist yesterday, we were determined to get some sightseeing in today. We decided to go to Chania (pronounced Han-yah), located on the northern coast of Crete about an hour and a half west of Bali. Our “Lonely Planet” says Chania is even more quaint and charming than Rythmeno. The old city has been continuously occupied for the last 6,000 years. When the Venetians took over, they (more…)
Yesterday evening, Christi finally started to feel better, which was a relief. She was really beginning to worry about it taking so long to recover. In the evening, we went out and explored town some more. We walked down some streets we hadn’t taken before and found a nice little short cut to the swimming beach and line of restaurants on the other side of the commercial harbor. Here is a shot of the marina from one of the streets we were on.
We picked a restaurant and sat down. We ordered the stuffed lamb, and we are happy to report it was unbelievably good. The lamb was stuffed with (more…)
Our flight back to Crete was at 0530, which meant we were up at 0245 and out the door by 0330. We were surprised that the bus to the airport was full. Early morning flights must be common. Flying with a sinus infection is not fun. We were back to Kosmos by 0800. Christi self-medicated and went to bed. It has been 4 days now, and except for occasionally rousing for food and restroom, she has stayed in bed pretty much the entire time.
While Christi slept, Eric worked on a few chores around the boat, including fixing some chips in the gel coat, more cleaning in the engine room, trying again to hunt down the exact spot of the starboard stabilizer leak (it is somewhere near, or at, the locking pin or the cylinder), and the never ending task of organizing. A Nordhavn 57 pulled into the marina the day we got back from Athens. It is always fun to find a fellow Nordhavn on our travels. Eric spent some time chatting with the owner and helping him with some boat maintenance and repair issues. But Eric spent the vast majority of his time on the most important task of all: complete the quest in his video game, Oblivion. He is pleased to report he finished his game and saved the world.
We figure now is a good time to get caught up on our food reporting. We tried a dish called seafood saganaki. We were expecting the battered, pan fried cheese topped with seafood. We were very surprised when out came something akin to a stew with a rich tomato sauce. It was really good.
Another staple of Greece is souvlaki, which the rest of the world calls kebabs. Pictured here is a souvlaki sandwich, on pita bread, topped with tomato, onion and French fries.
We tried a dish that consisted of (more…)
Continued from yesterday… The first thing we saw as we walked in was the landing for the pulley system. We peeked over the edge. It is a long, long way down. Neither of us could imagine being transported in and out of the complex on that. It looks perilous. We went to the old carpenter’s shop, with a variety of general tools, such as saws and pliers. We toured the cellar, which housed an assortment of hand made farming tools and food processing equipment, such as wine vats and milk churns. The monks were completely self-sufficient. They farmed in the valley below and made their own food products, including cheese, yogurt, wine, olives and olive oil. We also saw the large kitchen and the old cookware from the days before modern stoves and ovens.
There are three churches on site, but we only visited one of them, the Transfiguration of Jesus. The church is post-Byzantine in architecture and décor, incredibly ornate, and surprisingly small. Every inch of the church is covered in paintings of Jesus and the saints. We went into several other rooms that are now museums of sorts. The large dining room is now an art gallery. The infirmary now houses ancient manuscripts, icons, woodcarvings, ornately decorated clothing, etc. It also has an area devoted to modern day martyrs, people who have fought for “our faith and our nation”. Another room documents the history of Greece, with artist renderings of famous moments, costumes, folk art and so forth. We walked around the grounds, which are beautifully landscaped and quite lovely. We enjoyed the view of the valley below. It is a pleasant place, definitely the type of quiet sanctuary that is ideal for a religious retreat.
The next stop on the tour was the Holy Monastery of St. Stephen, built in the 1500’s. The guide chose this particular one because (more…)
Continued from yesterday… When we left from the hotel, the bus headed northeast, slowly winding its way down the steep mountain towards the beautiful ocean below. Once we got to the shore of the Gulf of Malis, we turned northwest into a large valley of farmland.
We were surprised to find that a big chunk of this valley is man made land. Our tour guide told us 70% of Greece is mountainous, but our guidebook said 80%. We wonder if the disparity in the numbers has to do with all this relatively recently reclaimed land we have been driving through the last couple days?
We climbed up a narrow mountain range. As we neared the top, we could see ahead of us was yet another large farm valley, called the Plain of Thessaly. This is a natural valley. As we descended, we could see our destination ahead, the closest of the mountains at the north end of the valley, somewhat isolated from the rest. It is called Meteora, which means “suspended in the air”.
As we drove through the Plain of Thessaly, we found out that we were in the heart of central Greece, in an area known as the “bread basket”. This area gets the most annual rainfall, and is the most fertile. The day was almost over, so we stopped at a hotel about 5 km away from the mountain for the night.
We piled back in the bus at 0830. We drove the 5 kilometers to the town at the base of the mountain, called Kalambaka, then the bus began to wind its way up. It wasn’t until we were climbing into the hills that we realized this mountain houses a series of sharp, vertical sandstone rocks. We stopped at a viewpoint and got out. The guide pointed out (more…)