Kosmos Travel Log

Wishing all of you and Happy, Healthy, Safe and Prosperous 2008!

We have been doing some reflecting on 2007. It has been the most amazing year of both our lives. The first four months we jumped hurdle after hurdle in trying to get ready to go. It seemed several times that obstacles might stop us, but then at the last minute we were able to overcome these obstacles, leaving a month behind schedule. We want to thank everyone who helped us overcome the various hurdles. We are so blessed to have had so many people help us along the way and we are thankful for your friendship, help, and support. We couldn’t have done it without all the help!

Since leaving we have been to 18 islands in the South Pacific, four places in Australia and one in Indonesia. We’ve been SCUBA diving in all kinds of amazing places, including beautiful reefs, caves, and shipwrecks. Of course, we have seen incredible amounts of sea life on our dives. We went swimming with dolphins and whales and sharks in the ocean. We have been to the rim of an active volcano and walked up a waterfall. We have seen many traditional Polynesian and Melanesian villages. We’ve done a lot of snorkeling, gone on many gorgeous hikes, and taken several island tours, including one on a go cart, one on horseback, and one in a helicopter. We have been to several big celebrations for a country’s local holiday, and twice gotten within a few feet of the country’s president at these events. We anchored on a sunken sailboat by mistake and had to handle getting unstuck very carefully or we would have sunk, too. We got our anchor badly stuck on some coral another time. In Australia we saw all kinds of crazy land animals and ate crocodile and kangaroo. We have been in very rough seas, and once we almost got hit by lightening. Those are all the biggies, but there is much more, too. Here is a list of some of the highlights since leaving home.

• Average speed: 5.94 knots
• Best Polynesian Food: Jenna’s Niuan Buffet, Niue
• Best Sea Animal Encounter: Tie between swimming with the whales in Vava’u, Tonga and swimming with the melon headed dolphins in Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
• Best Polynesian Dancing: Society Islands, French Polynesia
• Best Tattoo artistry: The Marquesas
• Best Wood Carvings: The Marquesas
• Best Yogurt: Mami Nova brand (we found in Tahiti, imported from France)
• Cleanest Fuel: Thursday Island, Australia
• Days on land/days at sea: 141/70 = 33% time at sea
• Deepest anchorage: 100 feet in Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva, French Polynesia
• Deepest dive Christi: 130 feet in Luganville, Vanuatu
• Deepest Dive Eric: 102 feet in Niue
• Favorite Dive Spot: Fakarava, French Polynesia
• Friendliest People: Niue
• Least expensive destination: Timor, Indonesia
• Longest passage at sea: 21 days from San Diego to Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
• Most amazing land destination: active volcano in Tanna, Vanuatu (found in blog under Efate)
• Most boats in a single anchorage: Tahiti, French Polynesia
• Most expensive destination: Bora Bora, French Polynesia
• Most expensive fuel: Cairns, Australia
• Most frustrating check in/check out experience: Fiji (we were unlucky. Most have no issues)
• Most remote from civilization: Suwarrow, Cook Islands
• Most Unique Land Animals: Tropical Dome, Cairns, Australia
• Restaurant with best value for the quality: Chef’s in Nadi, Fiji
• Restaurant with worst value for the dollar: Hotel Bora Bora, Bora Bora, French Polynesia
• Scariest Event: Getting the anchor stuck on the sunken sailboat in Apataki, French Polynesia
• Shallowest anchorage: 10 feet in Moorea, French Polynesia
• Strongest winds: 39 knots during a squall on passage from Australia to Indonesia
• Total distance traveled: 9,959 Nautical Miles (11,452 statute miles, 18,320 Kilometers)
• Total engine hours: 1676
• Total generator hours: 767
• Worst seas: Suwarrow to Niue passage (waves as high as 14 feet – not fun!)

It will be very interesting to see what 2008 has in store for us. We hope it is just as good – or even better – than our wonderful 2007.

Day two at sea is exactly the same as day one, which is slow, rocky and not fun. We have accepted that it is impossible to make it to Vila before sunset and have slowed the RPM’s down to 1700, which is closer to what we ideally like to cruise at. The moon is rising around 2300 (11:00 pm) right now, so we need to slow down so we have moonlight to see by as we approach the pass. If we come in too early in the evening, it will be pitch black.

We wanted to take a moment to comment on the “political turmoil” in Fiji. We were surprised to find  (more…)

Much to our dismay, the customs guy contacted us yesterday afternoon to let us know he would be out of the office until 10:00. We needed to check out right at 08:00 if we were going to make it to Port Vila before dark on Monday. This really messed up our plans. Should we leave late in the afternoon and come in on Tuesday morning instead? We have a friend who was already in Port Vila waiting on us, and we hated to make him wait yet another day.

On the dock in Denaru we met another cruiser who was also going to go to Lautoka to check out at the same time we were. He said he would give us a dinghy ride in and out of customs. Without having to deal with the dinghy, we could well be on our way by 10:30. We decided  (more…)

Our walk with Tooey was on Tuesday. On Tuesday night, heavy rain began that continued through the next day. Local custom requires that you tell the chief in person when you are leaving the anchorage. It was raining really hard and we figured the chief would understand if we didn’t trek out in the rain to say goodbye.

We wanted to check out on Thursday morning, so the plan was (more…)

We had a hard time sleeping last night. It was windy, rolly and uncomfortable. We were pleasantly surprised when we awoke to clear skies and bright sunshine. We couldn’t have ordered up a better day for a hike.

We met Tooey on the shore in front of the school at 10:00. We brought two of the crew from Flashgirl with us. We hadn’t explored the school yesterday, afraid to trespass. There is a large field in the center, lined with buildings on all sides. Some of the buildings are classrooms, some housing for the teachers, and some dorms for the kids.

According to Tooey,  (more…)