More About Part 2 of The Unexpected Circumnavigation

Part 2 of The Unexpected Circumnavigation: Unusual Boat, Unusual People covering Australia to Oman is now on sale! Read the first few pages on Lulu’s “preview” feature and read an excerpt from Chapter 1 here (starts on page 18)!

Jeff Merrill wrote an extensive book review for the site.

Many people have asked us why they should buy our book if they can read our blog for free. Just like Part 1, the book is very different from the blog. Here are a few of the differences between the two:

  • Prologue: Picks up where the Prologue of Part 1 left off. It focuses primarily on the research we did as we planned for our journey and addresses the majority of the questions we were most frequently asked.
  • Several new stories from the journey – And there are some really good ones!
  • Many details have been added that were best left undisclosed while we were still on the journey (sometimes we didn’t want our parents worrying about us; sometimes we didn’t want to incriminate ourselves!)
  • In Retrospect sections with great insights — so you can see the situation through the eyes of a newbie as we learn, while simultaneously seeing the same situation through the eyes of experience.
  • Streamlined stories – some complained our posts were too long and detailed, the book is a condensed version they will enjoy more.
  • Formatting is first person, through Christi’s eyes – Some complained they didn’t like the third person format, so they will enjoy the book more.
  • Actual dates on each post. On the blog, the dates are not real time, which is a significant piece of information for anyone hoping to follow in our footsteps.
  • All profits will go to our cruising fund. The more books we sell, the sooner you can start reading about our next journey! So, buy one and get all your friends to buy one, too!

People have also asked us why we broke the series up into four books instead of only three. We had very different experiences in each of the four world regions, so it was best for each region to have its own volume.

  • In the South Pacific, Part 1, we spent most of our time in sparsely populated areas communing with nature. And we did a lot of rough sea time, learning about boating the hard way.
  •  In Asia, Part 2, we were mostly in densely populated areas building cultural bridges. Our sea experiences were also different from the Pacific, with both our best and worst passages occurring in this region.

2008 Reflections and Happy 2009!

Happy New Year! Wishing all of you and happy, healthy, safe and prosperous 2009.

It is time for a quick break from the usual travel log stories and do a summary of 2008. You can always check the Travel Summary to see the details of where we have been. Here is our map from the Travel Summary page showing our progress since April 2007:


Last year, we did our year end summary list based on blog-time, meaning we didn’t talk about anything that hadn’t posted yet. This year we are doing the highlights in real-time, so some of these highlights are previews of blog stories yet to come. This is mostly due to the blog stories being several weeks behind real-time.

Since the 2007 highlights posting, Kosmos has made 33 stops in 18 countries. We have crossed two oceans the Indian and the Atlantic. We crossed the dreaded Gulf of Aden just after the pirate attacks had started up again after a 2 year lull. We crossed the Red Sea and went through the Suez Canal and then the Mediterranean Sea. We have done a lot of miles that is for sure!

Last year we were mostly in rural places experiencing nature, this year we spent most of our time in urban areas experiencing cultures and histories. We have been to some of the poorest and richest places in the world. We have been to Buddhist, Hindu, Muslim and Christian areas, and gotten a taste of Asian, Indian, Arab, Turkish, and European cultures. We have been consistently impressed with how kind and generous people are the world over. Even people who have almost nothing are willing to share the little they have. It is touching. We have had quite a few complete strangers invite us to their houses for home cooked meals, all of which are special highlights for us for the overall trip. We have had many other locals take us sightseeing and/or to experience the local culture first hand. We didn’t have many difficult times this year, but each time we did, we always had at least one, and usually more, locals willing to help us out, sometimes at a sacrifice to themselves. This year has opened our eyes to how wonderful human nature really can be and to how much fun it is to partake in other cultures.

Here are some of the more memorable things that stand out, as well as the statistics, from this year:

  • Average speed entire trip: 5.9 knots
  • Best ancient sites: Luxor and Giza, Egypt
  • Best hot chocolate: Valletta, Malta, though Angelina’s in Paris, France takes a close second
  • Best marina security: Marsa Alam, Egypt
  • Best night light show: Hong Kong, China
  • Best Overall Artistry: Bali, Indonesia
  • Best restored ancient housing: Ephesus, Turkey
  • Best yogurt: Greek style (even better with honey)
  • Biggest animal ever ridden: elephants in Phuket
  • Calmest anchorage: Rinca, Indonesia
  • Cleanest country: tie between Monaco and Singapore
  • Craziest locations of buildings: Meteora, Greece
  • Days on land/days at sea (whole journey): 433/169 = 28% of time underway
  • Favorite big city: Paris, France
  • Favorite dive spot: Komodo National Park, Indonesia
  • Favorite grocery store: Mark’s & Spencer’s, Gibraltar
  • Favorite guided tour: kayak hawng tour around Phuket, Thailand
  • Friendliest monkeys: Gibraltar
  • Hardest hike: Stromboli, Italy
  • Highest concentration of expensive cars: Monaco
  • Highest concentration of wealth in one building: The Louvre in Paris, with the Vatican, Vatican City taking second place
  • Least expensive fuel: Salalah, Oman
  • Longest passage: 20 days across Atlantic from Gran Canaria to Guadalupe
  • Meanest monkeys: Langkowi, Malaysia
  • Most awe inspiring tradition we witnessed: the Islamic annual fasting during the holy month of Ramadan while in Tunisia
  • Most bureaucracy: Andaman Islands, India
  • Most convenient check in: Pointe a Pitre, Guadalupe
  • Most daring rescue: saving a sailboat twice in Stromboli, Italy
  • Most different culture from ours: Oman
  • Most eager to feed you: Greece
  • Most effort expended by locals to help us out: Hulhumale, Maldives
  • Most expensive entry fees: Male, Maldives
  • Most expensive fuel: Male, Maldives
  • Most graffiti: Italy
  • Most interesting salvage of underwater treasures: Bordum, Turkey
  • Most mischievous activity: sneaking into the UN climate change conference, Bali Indonesia
  • Most surprising ham presentation: Canary Islands, Spain
  • Most unique housing: traditional Berber homes, Southern Tunisia
  • Most unique land animal in the wild: Komodo Dragons, Rinca, Indonesia
  • Most unique museums: Malaysia
  • Most unique tradition we experienced: annual sheep shearing and celebratory party in Crete, Greece
  • Most unique yacht club building façade: Las Palmas, Canary Islands, Spain
  • Most vintage busses: Malta
  • Most vintage cars: Andaman Islands, India
  • Newest mode of transportation we tried: Segway personal transportation vehicle
  • Nicest taxis: Mercedes are standard issue in Crete
  • Prettiest church exterior: Il Duormo, Milan, Italy, second place goes to the cathedral in Palermo, Italy.
  • Prettiest city: Monaco
  • Rolliest marina: One degree 15, Singapore, closely followed by Mallorca, Spain
  • Roughest passage: Bali to Singapore, but the Red Sea was no fun, either
  • Scariest Experience: Kosmos almost sinking in Stromboli, Italy
  • Scariest port entry: Singapore
  • Slowest check in: Andaman Islands, India
  • Worst drivers: Egypt
  • Worst radio abuser: The Pilipino Monkey Boy can be heard from Italy to Singapore
  • Strongest winds: 42 knots during a squall on Atlantic crossing
  • Total distance traveled 2008: 14,314 nautical miles (16,460 statute miles, 26,3337 kilometers)
  • Total distance traveled entire journey: 24,273 nautical miles (27,914 statute miles, 44,662 kilometers)
  • Total engine hours 2008: 2414
  • Total engine hours entire journey: 4090
  • Total generator hours 2008: 877
  • Total generator hours entire journey: 1644

We are looking forward to 2009. We hope you follow along on the Kosmos Travel Log. 🙂

Travel Summary July 2008 to December 2008

July 2008 to December 2008 — Egypt to Monaco

  • Suez City, Egypt
    29°56N by 32°34E
    Jul 8 – Jul 17, 2008
    Giza Pyramids, Cairo Museum, transiting Suez Canal
  • Aghios Nikolaos, Crete, Greece
    31° 11.2N by 25° 43.0E
    July 26 – Aug 26 & Sep 3 – 9 & Oct 6 – 7, 2008
    Monasteries, Sheep Party, Knossos Minoan ruins, trip to Athens, Delphi, Meteora & Thermopalye on mainland, visit to towns of Rythmeno and Chania on Crete, SCUBA diving, cave, olive oil factory, trip to Santorini, repairing exhaust leak
  • Kos, Dodacanese Islands, Greece
    36°53N by 27°18E
    Sep 10 – 17, 2008
    Ruins, Trip to Rhodes medieval city
  • Bodrum Peninsula, Turkey
    Turtugreis 37°0N by 27°15E
    Yat Lift 37°0N by 27°27E
    Sep 17 – Oct 6, 2008
    Haul out & accompanying work, underwater archeology museum, trip to Izmir & Ephesus
  • Bali, Crete, Greece
    35°25.0N by 24°46.5E
    Oct 8 – Oct 9, 2008
  • Pylos, Peloponnese, Greece
    36°54.0N by 21°40.5E
    Oct 10 – Oct 14, 2008
    Visit to castle/fort & bird sanctuary
  • Siracusa, Sicily, Italy
    37°03.0N by 15°17.2E
    Oct 16 – Oct 23, 2008
    Trips to Catania & Mt. Etna, Il Duormo church, kayaking
  • Vittoriosa, Malta, Malta
    35°53.4N by 14°31.2E
    Oct 27 – Nov 5, 2008
    Patron saint celebration, archeology & maritime museums, spectacular churches & accompanying museums, grandmaster’s palace, medieval citadel, Ggjanta Temples, maintenance work, blue lagoon
  • Yasmine Hammamet, Tunisia
    36°22.3N by 10°32.8E
    Nov 7 – 18, 2008
    SCUBA diving, Medina, Ramadan dinner, Bardo museum, riding the sand dunes in the Sahara, set of Star Wars, traditional indigenous housing
  • Trapani, Sicily, Italy
    38°00.5N by 12°31.1E
    Nov 18 – 21, 2008
    Trip to Palermo
  • Stromboli, Sicily, Italy
    38°47.5N by 15°14.2E
    Nov 21 – 27, 2008
    Volcano hike, emergency rescues
  • Lipari, Sicily, Italy
    38°28.4N by 14°57.5E
    Nov 27 – Dec 2, 2008
  • Rome, Italy
    41°44.3N by 12°14.6E
    Dec 4 – 16, 2008
    Vatican, ancient ruins, Pantheon, Vatican fort
  • Monaco
    43°44.0N by 7°25.3E
    Dec 18 – 31, 2008
    Hiking in the Alps, underwater museum

Passage from Bodrum, Turkey to Agios Nickolaos, Crete

This morning we got ready to go back to sea. At 1100, the lift came to pick us up and put us back into the water. The wind had been screaming yesterday, and the forecast was the same for today. But, so far, the wind wasn’t too bad and the sea in the bay seemed to be calm. This is a very good thing.


We had planned to take Ali and his family for a quick ride around the bay so they could experience being on a Nordhavn for themselves. There were a few cruisers staying at the yard that were watching Kosmos being put back in the water, so we invited them along, too. We were only out for 30 minutes, and it was a fun little ride.

We dropped off the guests, then took the 2 ½ hour ride over to D-Marina, where we tied up to the customs pier and checked out of the country. This was the fastest and easiest check out of all time. Within 15 minutes of tying up, we were pulling out again. We were so sad to see Continue reading Passage from Bodrum, Turkey to Agios Nickolaos, Crete

Stabilizer Repair

Today was a busy day! As you may recall, we have an obnoxious squeak on the port (left) stabilizer and a leak that has gone from slight to more serious on the starboard (right) side. The necessary parts arrived this morning, and by 1000 the repair guys were working away. They started on the starboard side. The leak was coming from Continue reading Stabilizer Repair