{"id":10514,"date":"2025-02-28T13:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-02-28T13:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/?p=10514"},"modified":"2025-03-07T16:42:55","modified_gmt":"2025-03-07T16:42:55","slug":"portobelo-colon-province-colombia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/2025\/02\/28\/portobelo-colon-province-colombia\/","title":{"rendered":"Portobelo, Colon Province, Panama"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Thanks to cloud cover, the sun itself was not visible on Wednesday, February 19, but it was still a colorful sunrise.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0907.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>We decided to keep the car for another day to go to the town of Portobelo, which was about 80 km (50 miles) away from the marina. Portobelo was a small town with a nice bay and protected anchorage that was popular with the cruisers. It was a pivotal part of Spain\u2019s colonial rule, so it was historically significant. Since we wouldn\u2019t be going to Portobelo by boat, we thought it would be fun to go by car.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>On our way out of Ft. Sherman, we decided to make a quick stop at the public beach. Since we\u2019d driven by it so many times, we felt like we should at least stop and see it up close. It was a man-made beach, south of the Coast Guard base, along the road to the bridge. It was usually packed on the weekends. The US military had put in, and it was lined with more of the same housing structures that we\u2019d seen at the loop\u2026 except these were in much worse shape.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We parked in the small parking lot and ventured in. Maybe it was the gloomy weather, but the beach felt sad. There were dilapidated buildings, sunken ships and a lot of trash strewn around. Someone had put up a series of palapas, but most of them had fallen apart into hunks of debris that added to the trash. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0950.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Taken from the south end of the beach, looking north. The buildings at the tip of the peninsula are the coast guard base<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<!--more-->\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0932.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">in the background to the right are the sunken ships, to theft is the city of Colon across the bay.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0929.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0948.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>We hopped back in the car and continued on. Rather than taking the more direct route through the heart of Colon, we took the toll road for a few exits to the suburbs, then navigated to the two-lane highway that paralleled the coast.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The coast was developed the entire way, mostly with low houses, though there were a few big ones and a few hotels, too. We passed by a series of small towns. It took 1.5 hours to get there.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Our first stop was Batteria Santiago, the remains of one of the forts, which the cruisers had told us was on the edge of downtown. The ruins were along the main highway, and were clearly visible when we rounded a bend. Parking was free in a dirt lot next on the west side of the ruins. It looked like the parking lot also serviced a nearby dock. There were touts in the parking lot asking tourists if they wanted to take a boat ride to a nearby island.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0951.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Entrance from the parking lot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Apparently, the Spaniards had built three forts along this bay. Construction on the forts began in the late 1500s, about the same time as the <a href=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/2025\/02\/19\/castillo-de-san-lorenzo-el-real-del-chagres-panama\/\">Castillo de San Lorenzo<\/a>. The Portobelo forts were named jointly with the Castillo as a UN world heritage site. We were unclear on whether there were still remains of the other two forts in Portobelo that we could visit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There was no entrance fee \u2013 the ruins were wide open to the public to wander at will. If there were any signs posted beyond the one on the ground in the image above, we didn\u2019t see them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0958.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The part of the fort that parallels the road<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0959.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">To the left is the east side of the fort, to the right, a portion of the wall paralleling the bay. The next photo is of Keith and Eric standing on this wall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0968.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">The entire bay facing wall was lined with canons. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0970.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Looking back at the west side of the fort. The arch is the entrance to the parking lot. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0956.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Guard turret along the western edge of the fort<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>We were shocked to see that the majority of the structure was made from coral.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0961.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Shortly after arriving, it started to pour rain. We all took shelter under the east entrance doorway. Keith and Eric decided thy&#8217;d have better shelter in the guard turret on the west side, and ran right by the entrance to the indoor portion of the fort without even noticing it.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0978.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video\"><video controls src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/running-in-rain-portolbelo.mov\"><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Heavy showers were common in Panama, and they usually didn\u2019t last long. After waiting what seemed like forever (realistically, it was probably 10-minutes), Eric checked the forecast and saw that the rain wasn\u2019t supposed to stop for the entire afternoon \u2013 in fact, it was only going to get heavier. Communicating via text, we decided to move on to an indoor venue.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As she was running to the car, Christi stopped to take a quick peek at the indoor portion of the fort. It was small &#8212; just three narrow hallways of varying lengths. But it was totally dry in there!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0980.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Our original plan had been the fort, lunch at a pizza place popular with the cruisers, the museum, the church, then walk around town. The pizza place was a little ways down the same road. Had it been a clear day, we would have happily left the car at the fort and walked, but we didn\u2019t want to be walking around in such heavy rain&#8230; especially since there weren\u2019t sidewalks.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It was about 1140 and the pizza place didn\u2019t open until noon, so we drove to the church, which was famous for depicting Jesus as black.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0986.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_0990.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>While there was parking at the church, we hadn\u2019t seen any place to park in between the fort and church, which meant we\u2019d need to walk back to the pizza place. We sadly decided that, if the rain was only going to continue to get heavier and heavier, we should err on the side of caution and drive back to the marina sooner rather than later.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The little bit of the town that that we\u2019d seen was adorable \u2013 cute buildings painted in bright, cheerful colors. Thanks to a few wrong turns after leaving the church parking lot, we got to see some of the residential streets, as well. There were a lot of people out, completely unfazed by the rain!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The drive back was painfully slow. At various points in time, we got stuck behind a couple of buses and a couple of construction vehicles. Because the road was curvy and visibility poor, there weren\u2019t many opportunities to safely pass.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We haven\u2019t talked about the busses yet on this trip, though we did mention them <a href=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/2009\/06\/17\/preparing-to-transit-the-canal-paying-the-fees-in-colon\/\">15-years ago<\/a>. Panama was known for its public transit busses. They were the standard model of school busses used in the US when Eric and Christi were kids. They all had a white base paint covered with brightly-colored designs. Every bus was uniquely painted \u2013 some were simple stripes, and some were artistic masterpieces. Each had a name. One of the ways we\u2019d been entertaining ourselves on our road trip was with the busses. Here was a photo of one of the buses that we saw in Panama City:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/IMG_6859.jpeg\" alt=\"\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The busses were especially painful to be stuck behind as they were gross polluters. They let out copious amounts of very stinky, very black smoke. Since the road was so narrow, even when the bus pulled to the side of the road to let passengers on and off, there usually wasn\u2019t enough room to pass. After being behind them for a while, we were starting to get concerned about carbon monoxide poisoning.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As slow as the return trip was, we&#8217;re happy to report that we made it to the <a href=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/2025\/02\/20\/going-to-shopping-centers-and-the-secret-beach\/\">shopping center with Rey<\/a> without any problems. We had lunch in a restaurant called Toro&#8217;s Grill and more. Keith had ordered chicken fajitas, and he was disappointed to get pieces of chicken covered in barbeque sauce instead of the Mexican fajitas he\u2019d been anticipating. We all agreed the food was good, but not great.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After eating, we went to Rey and stocked up on frozen foods, then headed back to the marina.\u00a0In the evening, Keith went to the pool with his friends.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Thanks to cloud cover, the sun itself was not visible on Wednesday, February 19, but it was still a colorful sunrise. We decided to keep the car for another day to go to the town of Portobelo, which was about &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/2025\/02\/28\/portobelo-colon-province-colombia\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[66,1,44,67,398],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10514","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-central-america","category-general","category-history","category-panama","category-tourist-activities"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10514","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10514"}],"version-history":[{"count":23,"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10514\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10655,"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10514\/revisions\/10655"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10514"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10514"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kosmos.liveflux.net\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10514"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}