Yesterday, our first stop was fuel for Kosmos. We had an appointment at 09:00 and we filled up with duty free fuel at only AUS$1.11 per liter (~ $4/gal USD). Ouch. At least it was cheaper than filling up in Cairns by about 35 cents per liter. The fuel dock is made for taller boats and getting off of it was tricky. After we were done pumping, they told us to go and re-anchor and come back later to pay. We suppose that with 8 zillion customs boats and planes patrolling the area, they figured we couldn’t get too far away if we decided not to pay.

We re-anchored, paid, and then hopped the ferry to TI. Debbie and Jim were kind enough to let us use their internet again. The other day we had run off so fast after looking at the forecast that we hadn’t checked email, posted blogs, or done any of the other stuff we need to do on-line. While doing a little research on Indonesia, we realized that our intended first stop, Saumlaki, isn’t normally an official port of entry. This was a critical piece on information for us. From what we have read and heard, we may possibly be able to check in there, but there was no way we were going to take the chance of being turned away or having to pay bribes to be checked in there. We picked Kupang as our entry port and re-planned our route.

Indonesia has certainly been the most maddening country we have tried to go to yet. You need a visa and a cruising permit. To get a visa for more than 30 days, you need to go to the consulate in person. Since there is no consulate near us, that isn’t happening, so we are limited to only 30 days with a visa issued upon arrival. The cruising permit must be applied for in advance, no exceptions. It normally takes six weeks, but we hired an agent that got it for us in two weeks, so the agent was well worth the money. There was no way we were going to hang out in Australia for an extra month during cyclone season. The information we have gotten on check in and out, rules and regulations, bonds, fees, etc has all been conflicting. We get the impression the rules change with the whims of the people in uniform at each locale. From what we have gathered, check in will certainly be an interesting experience.

Back to our day”¦ the next stop was customs to check out, the grocery store for a few last minute items (the TI grocery store is much nicer than the one on Horn), then off to Jim’s office for an after hours party. Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay at the party long because the last ferry is at 18:00 (6:00 pm).

Back at Kosmos, Eric started polishing fuel. We wouldn’t be able to leave for Indonesia until around noon because we wanted to make sure all the fuel was nice and clean before we took off. This was a 1132 nm passage that would take about 8 days.

Today we woke up to zero wind. God has finally heard our prayers! We are leaving on a day with no wind!!!! Yes!!!! We spent the morning doing boat chores. Christi polished metal on the exterior. Eric changed the Racor fuel filter and the main engine oil and cleaned the sea strainer for the generator. Knowing that we are headed into an area where crime is a problem, we made sure everything on the exterior of the boat was stowed away or locked to the deck.

By 12:30 we were on our way. The wind picked up to 4 to 8 knots on our nose, creating small head seas. There is a 1 to 2 foot swell, also right on our nose. The ride is a little bit lurchy with the head seas, but it is nice to have waves only coming from one direction, not two, as is usually the case. Compared to what we are used to the ride is smooth and pleasant. It is more like being in a mildly rolly anchorage than at sea. Christi has been doing all kinds of stuff she normally doesn’t do while at sea, such as cooking and an arts and crafts project. It is so nice to be able to walk around without holding on for dear life, knowing if you let go you will for sure be knocked over. So nice to be able to be able to rummage through the fridge at your leisure, rather than manically grabbing one item and slamming the door shut before everything in the fridge falls at your feet. So nice to be able to go to the bathroom without getting slammed violently against the wall when you wash your hands (and are thus not holding on to anything). The best part is the weather forecast is the same calm conditions for the next few days. Life is good indeed.