Yesterday we went through our normal “get ready to go to sea” routine and pulled out at 1600 (4:00 pm). While we were getting ready, Stratos, one of the helpful guys who works at the marina, asked us if we were sure we wanted to go out in these conditions. Eric said he didn’t think it would be too bad. Famous last words.

Sea conditions were definitely in the uncomfortable category. The wind blew between 14 29 knots from our port beam (left middle) the whole time. The Med is known for short, steep waves at rapid intervals, and that is exactly what we got. We were constantly being pushed over, and it was bouncy as all get out. In the Pacific, we were used to a few moments of reprieve between the waves where we could catch our breath and brace ourselves for the next wave. No such luxury in the Med. The fact that we have lost our sea legs after being in one place for so long has only made the bad conditions that much harder to handle.

While the waves aren’t big, they are forceful enough that water was coming in the pilot house hatch. We did get hit by a few big rollers. We also got hit on the side by a breaking wave once. It knocked us over fairly far, and literally a waterfall came over the other side. Christi couldn’t believe how much water that wave contained. Breaking waves from the side are scary. Our boat will glide up and down just about any size wave with no problem, as long as it isn’t breaking. In theory a super huge breaking wave could sink us, or any boat. Fortunately, in all the miles we have gone, we have been hit by relatively small and few breaking waves.

By 1000 this morning, the seas had calmed down. We were close enough to land to get some protection. For three hours, the ride was pleasant. By noon, we could see the island of Kos in the distance. It looks like a big mountain sticking up out of the water, mostly undeveloped land.

Around 1300 (1:00 pm), we came around the windward side of the island, out of the protected waters. The wind really picked up, with gusts of up to 35 knots, and the seas also picked up substantially, but it wasn’t too bad of a ride. We were heading to the main city on the island, Kos Town, and as we got closer we noticed progressively more development. By 1500, we were at the marina entrance. We were directed to a juicy side tie spot (as opposed to a regular med-moor spot). We hadn’t made any special requests for such a great spot, they just assigned us there. Score!

Once we had Kosmos tied up and situated, we went to the marina office to check in. This marina complex is very upscale and swanky, with art deco buildings housing two boat stores, a small market, restaurant, marina office and a host of other facilities. The marina had required that we pre-pay at the time we made our reservation, so we were shocked when we were told we needed to pay the balance due. Balance due? Yes, we had pre-paid for a regular spot. Side tie spots are almost double. When Eric started to protest, the marina staff explained that the email disclosed the fees may be higher depending on the spot. Eric was tired and didn’t feel like arguing, so he just paid it. We went back to the boat and double checked the email. No disclosures of any kind about potential fee increases.

We had lunch at the marina. It was ok. Then we walked over to the Port Police to check in. The part of town the marina is in looks to be fairly new. The road and sidewalks are wide. The buildings are all 3 5 stories, in the blocky style that dominates in Athens and Crete. Shockingly, the buildings don’t touch. There is space between most of them.

We could see the walls of the old fort up ahead on the road that parallels the ocean. We strolled along, enjoying the view of Turkey across the water.

Once we got near the fort, it was almost as if an invisible line had been crossed. The buildings suddenly looked really old, the architecture changed dramatically, the streets narrowed and the buildings became closer to one another.

We walked around the old fort. There is a pretty bay on the backside, with lots of boats Mediterranean moored along the sea wall.

We walked around the bay to the Port Police. Check in was quick and easy. After some debate, we headed back to Kosmos. We were feeling pretty beat up from that passage and needed to rest before we did serious sightseeing. Eric rinsed the boat and we had a quiet night aboard.