We got a call on the radio first thing this morning from a couple we are friends with, Denise and Kip. We first met them in Nuka Hiva and have seen them often in various ports. We mentioned having lunch with them on our first day in Manihi, but didn’t mention their names in that entry. They were getting close to the reef and had recognized Kosmos from the distance. We definitely stand out. Eric gave them the low down on getting through the pass and where to anchor.

We got another delivery of more fish from John. We are not sure what kind of fish it is, but it is enough for three nights. A few minutes later, John called on the radio and said he was organizing a potluck at 1730 (5:30 pm) in celebration of Kip and Denise’s wedding anniversary. Since Christi wasn’t going to be making the fish still left from yesterday for dinner tonight, and since we couldn’t eat the new fish fast enough, we vacuumed sealed all the fresh fish and put it in the freezer.

We were going to be adventurous and go diving all by ourselves. We were going to dive off Kosmos and stay around the anchorage. Our first priority was getting the chain unsnagged, then after that we would get a closer look at the scenery around the boat.

We got into the water and swam down to the evil coral head that was ensnaring us. The wind had died down, so it was safer to work around the chain. When we anchored there were several boats around and we dropped anchor in a non-ideal spot. A shallow area was behind us. As we let out chain, we drifted over the shallow spot and the slack in the chain looped under a large coral formation. Then the wind pulled us back and tightened the chain and wedged it up deep in the formation. Then there was a broken piece of coral that was “locking” the chain against head. Words do not do it justice and we wish we had a camera to show how ugly the situation was.

We pulled and yanked on it to no avail. We rearranged the chain in other spots to create a little more slack and then pulled some more. The chain was not moving at all from under the ledge. Eric went up and got the boat hook. He yanked and yanked and yanked from every angle to release the lock on the chain until it finally came out. It is good we didn’t wait any longer to free the chain. The chain was cutting into the coral, making its way deeper and deeper into the coral head. This is the second time our SCUBA gear has saved us. We never would have been able to get the chain out from under that ledge without going into the water. It was about 20 feet deep. Our boat hook gets equal credit for saving us, since there was no way we could have pulled the chain out without the leverage of the hook.

With the chain free, Kosmos drifted to a much better spot. Now we could relax and enjoy the sights. We spent a lot of time closely examining all the little things that live in the coral. There are schools of itty bitty fish that congregate around the type of coral that looks like a spiky plant. Seeing these fish hover around the coral looks like butterflies hovering around a white rose bush that is on the verge of blooming. It is so pretty. Some of these tiny fish are aquamarine blue, some Kelly green, some black and white zebra striped; some have black heads and navy blue bodies with little white tails. There were a ton of oysters, and some huge ones. There were some enormously fat sea slugs. We noticed a lot of small trigger fish, some grouper, some huge butterfly fish, and lots of surgeon fish. We don’t know the names of these, but there are a lot of small royal blue fish, too. We are proud to report that our first “real” dive all by ourselves was a smashing success. We went down to 35 feet.

The party in the evening was a lot of fun. It was at the gazebo. Veronica made Denise and Kip crowns out of palm fronds adorned with a single red flower. The special Polynesian hats added a festive touch to the atmosphere. Here is a picture of Kip, Denise and the caretaker family.

Veronica made three kinds of fish battered and deep fried, in a curry sauce, and wrapped in aluminum and grilled on an Aussie style grill. All three were excellent. She also made coconut pancakes. They are about an inch thick and deep fried, more like a fritter than a pancake. They are sweet and very good. The oldest boy, Jeremiah, says they are even better hot off the grill. Veronica also made a dessert, a date cake. The bottom layer was dates (with pits) and the top layer was light custard. It was really tasty, though you had to be careful of the pits. The other cruisers brought things like beans and potato salad.

John had a pile of coconuts on the table. These coconuts weren’t totally round. They had a round center and small cone at the top and bottom. John opened the coconuts by hitting them with the cone of another coconut around the top edge. The top popped off, and voila, fresh coconut water. He opened a coconut for everyone that wanted one.

After we finished eating, John pulled out his guitar and sang for us. He opened with “From this Moment” by Shania Twain for Denise and Kip. He played a few rock songs and a few Polynesian songs. That moment is why we are cruising. Sitting on a tiny tropical island around a campfire, warm wind rustling the coconut trees, the stars shining so bright it looks like we can almost reach up and touch them, singing songs with a local family that has welcomed us with open arms. It doesn’t get any more fairy tale than this.