Playa Pichilingue, Day 5

Sunrise on Saturday, November 26. Very demur compared to some of the dramatic sunrises we’ve seen here in Baja.

We were shocked to find that today the tide was significantly higher than it had been yesterday. Yesterday, we’d tied up in front of the big restaurant. That wasn’t an option today since the big restaurant was flooded.

Instead, we tied up next to the little restaurant.

Our first stop was the farmer’s market in La Paz, which was on Tuesdays and Fridays near the malecon. The was only one vendor selling produce/eggs. There was someone selling cheeses, and we picked up some more goat cheese (though this cheese wasn’t as good as the cheese we’d gotten in Agua Verde). There were a few vendors selling things like honey, nuts and dried fruit. There was a place selling sausage and one selling ready to eat foods. The majority of the vendors were selling arts and crafts.

After we were done shopping, we weren’t sure what to do next. We didn’t want to rush back to Kosmos; we wanted to make use of the car while we had it. We decided to go to the cruisers morning coffee at Marina de La Paz to try to network with the other cruisers. Two different rallies had just been completed, the Baja Ha-Ha and the CUBAR. Between them, over 100 boats had just arrived in the Cabo/La Paz area. We knew there were kids on some of those boats, and we were trying to find the kids.

As we drove into town, we were surprised to see that the tide was so high that the malecon was wet.

Marina de La Paz was built in 1983 and was the first floating marina in Baja.

Club Cruceros is a nonprofit organization that helps boaters. The Club Cruceros clubhouse in on the grounds of Marina de La Paz.

Every morning (except Sundays), Club Cruceros hosts a morning coffee for cruisers. We met a few interesting people. One was named Bob. He was an American ex-pat who had been living in La Paz for a long time. He used to be a cruiser, but nowadays he did yacht management. When Christi asked about hairdressers, Bob said his wife was one. Christi scheduled an appointment with her for that afternoon.

We also met a fellow Nordhavn owner who had recently purchased his boat. We knew his boat and the previous owners; they’d kept the boat docked close to Kosmos. When Eric mentioned that we were out of generator filters, he offered to give us one. He also said there were two kids in his marina, Marina Cortez, that were close in age to Keith.  

They were also able to answer the most important question of all: the restaurant inside of Marina Cortez was serving burgers right now. We walked to Anzuelo Cocina Del Mar in Marina Cortez and Keith finally got his burger.

Our new Nordhavn friend ran to his boat and brought us the filter while we were waiting for our food. He also told us where to get more. Here was the view of Estrella Del Mar and the malecon from the restaurant.

The walkway that leads to the docks.

We had some time to kill before Christi’s hair appointment, so we walked across the street to the ice cream shop by the rental car agency. The boaters who’d had us over for lunch said the corn ice cream came from here. The ice cream from this place was better than the place we’d gone to yesterday

The hair salon was located in northeast La Paz, near the large cemetery. While Christi got her hair cut and colored, Bob took Eric and Keith sightseeing. The cemetery was interesting, filled with large mausoleums. Bob showed them the contrast between more affluent and less affluent areas, such dirt roads and precarious homes in the poor areas.

Christi was happy with her hair, and the grand total was only 550 pesos, which is about $27.50 USD! As we were passing Bahia Falsa on the way back to Playa Pichilingue, we realized that we’d forgotten about the burger place on the beach. Yesterday, we should have gone to Bahia Falsa for burgers Instead of getting a second breakfast. The burgers in Bahia Falsa were really good and we knew the restaurant opened at around 1000 or 1100.

Back in Playa Pichilingue, we had to carry the dinghy around the beachgoers to get it back into the water.

At the farmer’s market, we picked up some starfruit. On our circumnavigation, we’d said that starfruit was bitter, but eventually we realized the starfruit we’d eaten wasn’t all the way ripe. The starfruit that we bought today was a deep yellow and delicious, sweet and tangy like the candy Sweetarts.

Sunset under the crescent moon

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