Kosmos Travel Log

Wishing all of you and Happy, Healthy, Safe and Prosperous 2008!

We have been doing some reflecting on 2007. It has been the most amazing year of both our lives. The first four months we jumped hurdle after hurdle in trying to get ready to go. It seemed several times that obstacles might stop us, but then at the last minute we were able to overcome these obstacles, leaving a month behind schedule. We want to thank everyone who helped us overcome the various hurdles. We are so blessed to have had so many people help us along the way and we are thankful for your friendship, help, and support. We couldn’t have done it without all the help!

Since leaving we have been to 18 islands in the South Pacific, four places in Australia and one in Indonesia. We’ve been SCUBA diving in all kinds of amazing places, including beautiful reefs, caves, and shipwrecks. Of course, we have seen incredible amounts of sea life on our dives. We went swimming with dolphins and whales and sharks in the ocean. We have been to the rim of an active volcano and walked up a waterfall. We have seen many traditional Polynesian and Melanesian villages. We’ve done a lot of snorkeling, gone on many gorgeous hikes, and taken several island tours, including one on a go cart, one on horseback, and one in a helicopter. We have been to several big celebrations for a country’s local holiday, and twice gotten within a few feet of the country’s president at these events. We anchored on a sunken sailboat by mistake and had to handle getting unstuck very carefully or we would have sunk, too. We got our anchor badly stuck on some coral another time. In Australia we saw all kinds of crazy land animals and ate crocodile and kangaroo. We have been in very rough seas, and once we almost got hit by lightening. Those are all the biggies, but there is much more, too. Here is a list of some of the highlights since leaving home.

• Average speed: 5.94 knots
• Best Polynesian Food: Jenna’s Niuan Buffet, Niue
• Best Sea Animal Encounter: Tie between swimming with the whales in Vava’u, Tonga and swimming with the melon headed dolphins in Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
• Best Polynesian Dancing: Society Islands, French Polynesia
• Best Tattoo artistry: The Marquesas
• Best Wood Carvings: The Marquesas
• Best Yogurt: Mami Nova brand (we found in Tahiti, imported from France)
• Cleanest Fuel: Thursday Island, Australia
• Days on land/days at sea: 141/70 = 33% time at sea
• Deepest anchorage: 100 feet in Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva, French Polynesia
• Deepest dive Christi: 130 feet in Luganville, Vanuatu
• Deepest Dive Eric: 102 feet in Niue
• Favorite Dive Spot: Fakarava, French Polynesia
• Friendliest People: Niue
• Least expensive destination: Timor, Indonesia
• Longest passage at sea: 21 days from San Diego to Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
• Most amazing land destination: active volcano in Tanna, Vanuatu (found in blog under Efate)
• Most boats in a single anchorage: Tahiti, French Polynesia
• Most expensive destination: Bora Bora, French Polynesia
• Most expensive fuel: Cairns, Australia
• Most frustrating check in/check out experience: Fiji (we were unlucky. Most have no issues)
• Most remote from civilization: Suwarrow, Cook Islands
• Most Unique Land Animals: Tropical Dome, Cairns, Australia
• Restaurant with best value for the quality: Chef’s in Nadi, Fiji
• Restaurant with worst value for the dollar: Hotel Bora Bora, Bora Bora, French Polynesia
• Scariest Event: Getting the anchor stuck on the sunken sailboat in Apataki, French Polynesia
• Shallowest anchorage: 10 feet in Moorea, French Polynesia
• Strongest winds: 39 knots during a squall on passage from Australia to Indonesia
• Total distance traveled: 9,959 Nautical Miles (11,452 statute miles, 18,320 Kilometers)
• Total engine hours: 1676
• Total generator hours: 767
• Worst seas: Suwarrow to Niue passage (waves as high as 14 feet – not fun!)

It will be very interesting to see what 2008 has in store for us. We hope it is just as good – or even better – than our wonderful 2007.

When we woke up we noticed a big pot of gold on the bow of the boat. We were baffled as to where it came from until the guy from the boat next to us dropped off this picture.

Well that explains the gold! (more…)

Last night we had agreed to head over to a couple of islands farther down the reef, where we could see more birds and snorkel. We met at 10:00 and loaded into John’s boat. It was low tide. When we passed Monkey Island, we realized that the “reef” around the motu was actually the island itself submerged by high tide. Oops. We paralleled the reef around Suwarrow the entire ride, and it looks like the reef is a solid land mass that can be easily walked in low tide. Later, John confirmed that you can walk around the whole island on the reef (except for the passes).

We passed several small motus (islands) before John stopped at a larger one. There were a lot of bushes and trees around. The ground was rocky with chunks of coral and shells.

There were several white tropicbirds and boobies flying around and a couple of babies on the ground.

The adults walked the length of the motu while the children fished. As we came into view of the next motu, we could see (more…)

We got a call on the radio first thing this morning from a couple we are friends with, Denise and Kip. We first met them in Nuka Hiva and have seen them often in various ports. We mentioned having lunch with them on our first day in Manihi, but didn’t mention their names in that entry. They were getting close to the reef and had recognized Kosmos from the distance. We definitely stand out. Eric gave them the low down on getting through the pass and where to anchor.

We got another delivery of more fish from John. We are not sure what kind of fish it is, but it is enough for three nights. A few minutes later, John called on the radio and said he was organizing a potluck at 1730 (5:30 pm) in celebration of Kip and Denise’s wedding anniversary. Since Christi wasn’t going to be making the fish still left from yesterday for dinner tonight, and since we couldn’t eat the new fish fast enough, we vacuumed sealed all the fresh fish and put it in the freezer. (more…)

First thing this morning, John, the caretaker, called and asked us if we would like some fresh fish they had just caught. We said “sure” and headed over to shore. They gave us a ziplock bag containing enough fish for two dinners for us. There was tuna, rainbow fish, and something else. Much to Christi’s delight, the fish was filleted. (more…)