Diving the Coolidge and Luganville

At 0800, we were picked up by the dive company at Kosmos. Jaime is a dive master, but we still went with the local dive shop because we wanted to be with someone that knows the area. It was just the three of us with the local dive master. The boat ride over to the Coolidge was pretty short. From the surface, it didn’t look like there would be anything of interest. We tied to a mooring and went down the mooring line. The visibility was the worst we have seen yet in the entire South Pacific, but compared to San Diego, it was great. We couldn’t see the bottom from the surface, which made Eric nervous. He was already uncomfortable about going to a wreck dive where it would be easy to get trapped into a small space, and the lack of clarity pushed him over the edge and he decided to sit this one out.

Jaime and Christi descended the line, which was tied to a corner of the bow. The wreck wasn’t clearly visible until we got pretty close to it. From the corner you could swim over the top (which is the side of the boat), or continue descending to the foredeck. We continued descending. There were lots of fish around there were a couple of enormous angel fish, a big school of fusilier fish which are dark blue fish with bright yellow split tails, a few silver (trevallys) jacks, a tuna, a few parrotfish, and long nosed butterfly fish, to name a few of the species.

As they descended, the whole front of the ship came into clear view. The ship is absolutely massive. Christi felt like a small speck next to it. Christi and Jaime followed the local dive master as he swam over the foredeck, which still has equipment laying around ready for use. There is an anti-aircraft gun with a pile of large shells still stacked up ready for firing, gas masks and rifles lying about.

p1010020-large.JPG Continue reading

Welcome to Luganville, Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu

15.35S, 167.08E – We headed out to another island, called Espiritu Santo, yesterday morning. It is located about 120 nautical miles northwest of Efate. Espiritu Santo is the largest island in all of Vanuatu and has a population of 33,000. During World War II the Americans set up a large military base in Luganville, with half a million troops and 100 boats.

During the ride up to Santo we were often protected by islands we were passing, so overall the ride was calm and smooth, though when we were out from under the protection of the islands it got a bit rough. Many moons ago, Christi had written a blog about how the food in the refrigerator jumps out and attacks you while at sea . Jaime had posted a comment saying what she had written was hilarious. His comment must have angered the refrigerator god, because as soon as we got to a rocky stretch Continue reading

Vanuatu Village Life Cultural Demonstration

Once it was light out we could get a better look at the bungalows. The floor is covered in woven floor mates, the kind that we watched the lady make on Waya Island. The frame is large bamboo rods. The interior layers of walls are made up of thin bamboo stalks lashed together. The exterior layers of walls look to be similar to the woven mats on the floor. The roof is palm fronts with a relatively tall pitch. The roof extends over the porch. The roof fits snugly at the corners where the roof is lowest, but there is a big gap between wall and ceiling in the center of the little hut. This provides good air ventilation, and with the roof extending so far beyond front walls, no exposure to rain. We have seen this style of construction even in modern buildings all over the south pacific, particularly in the Marquesas. The beds have a mosquito netting over them that you can put down to protect yourself from bug bites. There is a small gas lamp at the bedside.

imgp1388-large.JPG

The restrooms are separate buildings that are shared by a few of the rooms. There is a small stall with a toilet and a basin with soap and water. There is a second stall with a shower. If you are looking for first world luxuries, you probably wouldn’t like it too much. If you are looking for a unique experience in a picturesque setting, this is the place for you.

imgp1392-large.JPG

Breakfast was at 07:00. They served Continue reading

Active Volcanoes and the John Frum Sing Along

Continuation from yesterday”¦.

“¦we could see the red sparks shooting up through a huge hole in the ground. The sparks landed on a ledge around the hole, glowing brightly. In the first photo you can see the edge of the peak we are standing, the ledge the molten rock lands on, and the hole the lava and smoke comes from. The second photo is dark, but gives you perspective on distance, although this is just the ambient lava flow, not one of the many big eruptions we will see later. Hopefully, you can get a sense that we are not standing all that much higher than the lava fallout ledge.

imgp1401-large.JPG

dsc00681-large.JPG

From the scattered rocks around, it seems that once in a while they make it beyond the ledge up to where we were standing. What amazed us is Continue reading

Ceremonies, Plane Rides and Active Volcanoes

We had heard that there was going to be a big parade at 0800. Today was going to be an exceptionally busy day, but we didn’t want to miss out on the public celebration of a big holiday, the 27th anniversary of the country’s independence. We were in town right at 0800. It turned out to be a ceremony, not a parade. Across from the produce market, in front of one of the government buildings, there was a small podium set up. There were a dozen official looking people seated behind the podium. In the street was a small squad of soldiers. The whole area was surrounded by police. The spectators mostly stayed on the sidewalk by the market. The ceremony began with the usual formalities flag salute, reading of a portion of the constitution, etc. Everything was in French, English and Bislama, so it took a while with the three translations. Then the president of Vanuatu gave a long speech. Not long after he started, it began to pour down rain. We feel sorry for those poor soldiers that had to stand in the rain. Here is a photo of the president greeting the soldiers before walking up to the podium.

jaime-kosmos2-003-large.jpg

We listened to the speech for a while, but we realized we were running out of time and Continue reading