By midnight last night, the wind was back up to 25 30 and we were being brutally bounced around. We had to slow down even more because we were getting beaten up too much at the higher speeds. We were hobby horsing like crazy, with the occasional wave making such a hard smack that you wince and wonder how much more the boat can take.
It seemed to us that since the gulf was small, it couldn’t be much longer before the fetch from the seas died off. We were Continue reading
Yesterday, we had breakfast with our French friends at the hotel, then quickly got Kosmos ready to go to sea. We headed over to the other side of the complex, where we pulled into the fuel dock near the harbor master’s office. Like everything in Port Ghalib, the fuel dock is new and modern. Fuel cost $1.15 a liter, which is pretty high, compared to other ports in Egypt, but overall a pretty good deal considering rising fuel costs. We don’t like leaving without polishing the fuel first, but we think it will be pretty good considering the amount of fuel the dive boats must go through. We’ll see how clean the filters are after we start running.
The attendant started fueling us up, and Eric went over to the harbor master and got us all checked out while the fueling was going on. Eric tried to tip the marina staff, and to our shock, they wouldn’t take the money. They said they weren’t allowed. This was very odd for Egypt, where tipping is always expected for everything.
We pulled out of Port Ghalib around noon. The weather forecast said conditions were going to be pretty good. The conditions were slightly worse than forecast, but overall not too bad. The wind was around 15 knots apparent, with small, but rapid interval head seas that had us bouncing. That night, the moon was full and bright, offering a lot of light, and the night visibility was excellent.
After 12 hours at sea, conditions drastically worsened. The wind Continue reading
Continued from yesterday”¦ The next stop was a temple called Djeser-djeseru (Sacred of Sacreds), built by Hatshepsut, ancient Egypt’s only female pharaoh. The site is also called Deir al-Bahri, after a Christian monastery that once stood here. When it was first found in the mid-19th century, it was in ruins. A team has been working on restoring it since the 1960’s. From the distance, it looks remarkably intact. The temple is built into a mountain face, three stories of evenly spaced pillars on a terraced base.
We ascended to the courtyard on the top floor. Here the carvings were faint, worn by the sun, but it looks like at one point in time every inch of wall space and all the pillars were carved. The pillars were very tall, but Continue reading
After a tasty buffet breakfast at the hotel, our first stop was to a shop that hand carved alabaster and other stones native to the area. A crew of four people demonstrated how the carving is done. Alabaster is a hard, translucent stone that comes in three colors. To carve vases, cups, bowls, etc. by hand, they put a block into a hole in the ground and use a special hand drill to make a hole in it. They continue drilling until the hole is the right size, then hand chisel it down to the correct shape, then sand and polish it. Hand carved alabaster is Continue reading
Continued from yesterday”¦ We back tracked and went through the opening that we had shown you. It leads into another courtyard area outside the Temple of Mut. In the courtyard is the top portion of a fallen, broken obelisk (tall rectangle with a pencil point tip) and a statue of a scarab beetle. It was believed that the scarab beetle had lots of powers, including good luck and fertility. If you circle the statue once, you will have good luck. If you circle it three times, you will get a baby. A British couple in our group said that after 5 years of infertility, they walked around the beetle statue three times and got pregnant. They swore by it. We only walked around it once.
The formal tour concluded with the beetle statue and we were free to roam the grounds and look at the rest of the temples on our own. All were amazing, some better preserved than others. The Temple of Mut is mostly ruins, but here is a shot of the statues flanking the entrance.
We spent quite a bit of time at the Festival Temple of Continue reading