Trip to Roseau to Go Sperm Whale Watching

Today we went to Roseau, the capital city on the southwest side of the island, to go whale watching. Around Dominica there are sperm whales in the water all year. One particular whale watch company has a 90% success rate in spotting them. So, we decided it was worth the money. We headed to shore in the early morning. The tour wasn’t until 1330, but we had no idea how long it would take to get to Roseau, and we figured we could get some sightseeing in before the whale watch.

We are sad to admit this, but we have been here for 5 days now and have not explored Portsmouth yet. That is so out of character for us. Usually, the first thing we do after pulling into a new port is check out the town. We mentioned that there are three restaurants with dinghy docks. All are on the northern end of town, so when we have gone to shore to eat, we stayed to the north, and it was usually dark, so we didn’t see much.

The beach here is black sand. We walked beyond the beach and out to the road, heading south toward the town center. The road paralleling the shore is probably the main drag. It is lined with buildings, most small bungalows. Some are in good shape, some are dilapidated, and most are weather beaten but habitable. It looks to us like the individual lots tend to have several buildings crammed on them.

It is only a few blocks walk to the heart of town. The ambiance changed palpably. The buildings became more commercial looking, closer together, and better maintained (though most still looked like they could use a coat of paint and a little general work).

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The bus stop is just north of Indian River. It was a parking lot with several nice mini-vans just like the one Winston was driving. We walked up and Continue reading

SCUBA Diving Cabrits Point, Dominica

Yesterday it rained for most of the day. It was a good reason to stay home and do much needed chores. Dominica has a ton of activities to offer, but almost all of them are outdoors, and most involving hiking. In the morning and early afternoon we worked on the bottom and water line. When Christi hopped in, she was horrified. It was the worst she has ever seen it. The grass was thick and long, and there were barnacles galore. She worked on the bottom for 45 minutes, until her tank was empty (the tank wasn’t full when she started). When she came up, Eric decided to give it a go. He hooked up a tank and jumped in. He was in the water a total of an hour. Like Christi, he worked on the bottom until he ran out of air (he also was not on a full tank), then worked on the waterline. The bottom looks a heck of a lot better, but we still have a long way to go. Sigh. The good news is that the water in the bay is amazingly clear. And we are amused to report that we have some fish living under our boat. Check out the beautiful rainbow.

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There are three restaurants that have dinghy docks for the cruisers to use, so we went to one of them for dinner. We both got a conch plate, which was served with an absolutely delicious sauce. The conch was perfectly tender, and not at all rubbery. It was served with mixed veggies, including christophene. It also came with a cooked banana or plantain (delicious), a piece of plain yam and a couple pieces of plain taro (both quite tasteless), lightly seasoned rice, and beans that had a little zest (quite good). It was nice to see such a full plate of food with so many little side dishes. It is almost a Guadeloupe style meal, except in Guadalupe all the sides would have been more elaborate.

 

Check out the pretty sunset from the resturant:

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While on shore, we booked a dive trip for this morning. We grilled the poor owner, asking her dozens and dozens of questions before we committed to diving. She must think we are freaks, but after being so unhappy with our last two dive companies, we figured we were being prudent. The fee was Continue reading

Syndicate Trail, Dominican Foods, and Milton Waterfall

Continued from yesterday”¦ We just kept going up, into the misty heights of the mountain tops. At one point, we passed a sign for the start of the trail to the top of the Morne Diablotin summit with a warning that it was a strenuous and dangerous 3 hour hike up. Morne Diablotin is Dominica’s highest mountain at 4747 feet tall.

Finally, we came to a point where Continue reading

Indian River Nature Preserve

Today we arranged to do two sightseeing tours with Arielle. The morning excursion was up Indian River, the second was a trip to the Syndicate Trails rain forest hike. Andrew picked us up at our respective boats and took us to the dock at the mouth of Indian River. Dominica boasts 365 rivers, but Indian River is one of the few that are navigable. He directed us to the gas station/mini market to buy tickets into the wildlife preserves. Both Syndicate and Indian Rivers are in preserves, and we asked for a day pass for both parks. The clerk sold us the tickets, and assured us it was a day pass good for both parks, and sent us back to the boat. We picked a great day for sightseeing. It was clear, sunny and warm out. Actually, it was a little on the hot side.

Beyond the dock, it is forbidden to Continue reading

Hoisting the Smoke Stack Back Up

Eric went right to work as soon as he got up. He took down the rest of the mountings from the mast. The second shot is of one of the broken mountings. You can see it used to be a perfect square with 4 holes.

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Eric had agonized yesterday over how to fix the problem, until he remembered that in his cache of spare parts there is a rubber hose intended for exhaust, so it could stand to get really hot. He dug out the hose and cut it into squares, then made holes for the screws. It was a total pain in the rear to get the shape and holes just right. He is becoming a pro at fabricating spare parts these days.

Eric went outside and mounted the rubber pieces to the mast. Originally, there had been Continue reading