Days Two and Three of Passage to Gibraltar

By 0100 yesterday morning, the wind and seas were steadily picking up and it officially became uncomfortable. The waves are steep and sharp, which is not a pleasant motion to start with, and they are incredibly close together. So, the boat will be riding over three or four waves at a time, making the boat move multiple directions at once. It is constant and not good. On the bright side (literally), the moon is half full and giving off a lot of light, making visibility good.

By 1000, it had gotten a little better, but no much. Winds were down to 7 10 knots real on the nose, but the waves hadn’t calmed down as much as the wind. But that little bit of improvement made it more tolerable to be aboard. It was sunny and bright out.

At 1300, we passed the Prime Meridian. We are now back in the western hemisphere. Another milestone indicating we are getting closer to home.

The wind didn’t change much for the rest of the day. The seas slowly but surely got better all day, and when we say slowly, we mean it. By 1900, the ride was actually pretty good. By midnight it was very smooth. Thank God.

By 0300 this morning, the wind had shifted to our rear and was down to one knot. The ride was fabulous, like floating along on silk. The moon was half full and vibrant, the light brightly reflecting off the smooth water to make visibility excellent. About 0315, the moon set. As it got lower in the sky, it went from white to gold to a yellow orange as it dipped into the water. It was so beautiful. Once the moon was gone, millions of stars lit up in the sky. They reflected on the water, and the bioluminescence was sparkling like diamonds. It was pretty spectacular.

By 1000, the wind had picked up to 3 – 8 knots real and shifted to our starboard beam. Our magical ride was gone, but the waves are small and following, so it is still a good ride.

By 2000, the wind had Continue reading

More Chores in Palma

This morning the wind had pretty much died and the marina was, for the most part, calm. Praise the Lord! We slept great and woke up full of energy, determined to get a lot done to make up for all the wasted days last week when we were too lethargic from the rocking to do much. It was ominously gray and cloudy all day, but it never really rained.

Eric set out to find a gasket and shaft packing tool. He went to two chandleries. The second chandlery sent him to a machine shop to have a gasket made. Eric arrived at the shop holding his home made gasket and the leftover gasket material we had gotten in Greece. The machine shop guys dropped what they were doing to make a gasket for him right then and there. And they only charged him $12 USD! Eric gave them Continue reading

The Train to Soller

Last night the marina wasn’t nearly as rocky as it has been. Yes, we were moving, but we felt like we were in an anchorage, not at sea. The lines weren’t making the horrific noises. So, we actually slept soundly and woke up feeling rested. We had planned to take the old train to the other side of the island today if the weather was nice. We were so happy to see that the sky was blue and the wind was relatively light. Awesome! We were taking a train ride.

We took the downtown bus to the train station, which is across the street from the main town square, and got tickets. We had about 45 minutes to kill, so we found a restaurant that serves breakfast nearby. We now consider breakfast a high luxury, and are always excited to find it. Actually, in Mallorca we have seen quite a few places advertise breakfast.

The train takes you from Palma due north to a town called Soller, which is about halfway along the northwest coast of the island. The line started in 1912, and the brochure gives the impression they are still using the same trains as back then. They are electric.

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We noticed that Continue reading

Spanish Pueblo and Castle de Bellver

We have mentioned a few times already that the boat rocks a lot in this marina, so much so that we feel like we are in unpleasant seas. We are constantly crashing into both neighbors. Thank God for fenders, but even with the fenders, it makes an unpleasant crashing sound. The ropes make loud, creaking cries as they strain against the wind. The loud noises wake us up multiple times during the night. Eric gets up a couple times a night to adjust the lines. We aren’t sleeping well, which makes getting up in the morning hard. Also, getting out of bed in the morning when it is cold is terrible. Eric has been running upstairs, turning on the generator and heater, then crawling back into bed until the bitter edge of cold is gone. And finally, the sun doesn’t rise here until almost 0800, which throws our internal clocks off. When we awake at a normal hour, like 0700, we think it is the middle of the night and go back to sleep.

Needless to say, we had a hard time getting up this morning and were off to a late start. We were happy to see that the skies were mostly sunny with scattered clouds, and it was not quite as windy. Most importantly, it was significantly warmer. We still needed long pants and a jacket, but not the heavy sweaters we have been wearing underneath the jacket.

We had an early lunch at the restaurant across the street before catching the red tour bus. We have noticed gazpacho on the menu at most of the restaurants we have been to, it is a traditional Spanish dish. Gazpacho is a cold tomato soup. This restaurant makes it with sparkling water instead of regular water, which Eric absolutely loved. We also ordered the scallops, which in and of themselves weren’t interesting enough to write about. But the way it was served was — on a bed of mashed peas, with a side of a hot salad of grilled vegetables, and some kind of foamy stuff, like the foam from steamed milk, except it wasn’t milk. Maybe steamed butter? Does such a thing exist?

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Fortunately, there is a Continue reading