Selemat Jalan (Goodbye) Kupang

Last night when we got back to the boat, it was rocking so much we felt like we were on passage in the South Pacific. This morning when we got up we were still undecided as to whether we should leave Kupang today or tomorrow. On the stay side was: after 8 days at sea, it would have been nice to stay anchored longer. There were more sights we could go see in Kupang to entertain ourselves. Eric’s eye was looking better after using some drops we had on board that soothe irritation, but it wasn’t completely healed and could need a different medicine. On the con side: it was rocky on board, the beach landings were not fun, and we were more interested in seeing sights in other places.

We headed to shore at noon where Continue reading

2007 Reflections and Happy 2008!

Wishing all of you and Happy, Healthy, Safe and Prosperous 2008!

We have been doing some reflecting on 2007. It has been the most amazing year of both our lives. The first four months we jumped hurdle after hurdle in trying to get ready to go. It seemed several times that obstacles might stop us, but then at the last minute we were able to overcome these obstacles, leaving a month behind schedule. We want to thank everyone who helped us overcome the various hurdles. We are so blessed to have had so many people help us along the way and we are thankful for your friendship, help, and support. We couldn’t have done it without all the help!

Since leaving we have been to 18 islands in the South Pacific, four places in Australia and one in Indonesia. We’ve been SCUBA diving in all kinds of amazing places, including beautiful reefs, caves, and shipwrecks. Of course, we have seen incredible amounts of sea life on our dives. We went swimming with dolphins and whales and sharks in the ocean. We have been to the rim of an active volcano and walked up a waterfall. We have seen many traditional Polynesian and Melanesian villages. We’ve done a lot of snorkeling, gone on many gorgeous hikes, and taken several island tours, including one on a go cart, one on horseback, and one in a helicopter. We have been to several big celebrations for a country’s local holiday, and twice gotten within a few feet of the country’s president at these events. We anchored on a sunken sailboat by mistake and had to handle getting unstuck very carefully or we would have sunk, too. We got our anchor badly stuck on some coral another time. In Australia we saw all kinds of crazy land animals and ate crocodile and kangaroo. We have been in very rough seas, and once we almost got hit by lightening. Those are all the biggies, but there is much more, too. Here is a list of some of the highlights since leaving home.

  • Average speed: 5.94 knots
    Best Polynesian Food: Jenna’s Niuan Buffet, Niue
    Best Sea Animal Encounter: Tie between swimming with the whales in Vava’u, Tonga and swimming with the melon headed dolphins in Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
    Best Polynesian Dancing: Society Islands, French Polynesia
    Best Tattoo artistry: The Marquesas
    Best Wood Carvings: The Marquesas
    Best Yogurt: Mami Nova brand (we found in Tahiti, imported from France)
    Cleanest Fuel: Thursday Island, Australia
    Days on land/days at sea: 141/70 = 33% time at sea
    Deepest anchorage: 100 feet in Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva, French Polynesia
    Deepest dive Christi: 130 feet in Luganville, Vanuatu
    Deepest Dive Eric: 102 feet in Niue
    Favorite Dive Spot: Fakarava, French Polynesia
    Friendliest People: Niue
    Least expensive destination: Timor, Indonesia
    Longest passage at sea: 21 days from San Diego to Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
    Most amazing land destination: active volcano in Tanna, Vanuatu (found in blog under Efate)
    Most boats in a single anchorage: Tahiti, French Polynesia
    Most expensive destination: Bora Bora, French Polynesia
    Most expensive fuel: Cairns, Australia
    Most frustrating check in/check out experience: Fiji (we were unlucky. Most have no issues)
    Most remote from civilization: Suwarrow, Cook Islands
    Most Unique Land Animals: Tropical Dome, Cairns, Australia
    Restaurant with best value for the quality: Chef’s in Nadi, Fiji
    Restaurant with worst value for the dollar: Hotel Bora Bora, Bora Bora, French Polynesia
    Scariest Event: Getting the anchor stuck on the sunken sailboat in Apataki, French Polynesia
    Shallowest anchorage: 10 feet in Moorea, French Polynesia
    Strongest winds: 39 knots during a squall on passage from Australia to Indonesia
    Total distance traveled: 9,959 Nautical Miles (11,452 statute miles, 18,320 Kilometers)
    Total engine hours: 1676
    Total generator hours: 767
    Worst seas: Suwarrow to Niue passage (waves as high as 14 feet not fun!)

It will be very interesting to see what 2008 has in store for us. We hope it is just as good or even better than our wonderful 2007.

Passage from Lizard Island to Thursday Island

We went over to visit with Maria and Gary on Merlin. They were a wealth of information, telling us all the best places to go in Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand. While in Port Douglas we had picked up a cruising magazine with an article about Indonesia, and it turned out they are the authors. They have written a couple other articles for the magazine on Indonesia, as well. Guess we bumped into the right people!

The plan was to Continue reading

Exploring Port Douglas, Queensland, Australia

Port Douglas was founded in 1877 as the port town for the Hodgkins River gold fields. In the 1880’s Cairns was chosen as the terminal for the new rail line from Kuranda and another mountain town called Mareeba. With the rail traffic going to Cairns, Port Douglas never grew bigger than a sleepy village. In the 1980’s a developer built a luxury resort that attracted tourists. More money was invested into making the town a nice tourist destination, and tourism is now Port Douglas’s primary income source.

We had decided yesterday that Christi should go under the boat. We thought the problem may have come from lanolin grease blocking the area where the shaft is supposed to leak, so she was going to go down and try to wipe any grease away from that area. When we checked in, the dock master told us they get small crocs in the marina from time to time, so Continue reading

Off to Lizard Island — But We Wound Up in Port Douglas, Instead

It will take us about 24-hours to get to Lizard Island, so we headed out a little before noon, figuring noon was the ideal time of day to arrive at Lizard Island. The seas were incredibly calm and it was a nice ride.

Eric was constantly checking the shaft. The collar of the shaft was still running too hot. He started running water from the hose on it to cool it off and pulled out some of the stuffing material. It was still running too hot, so he kept the water on it. After a while, the water pump overheated and shut off. We slowed down, hoping that would help. It didn’t. The shaft seemed to be OK temperature wise, but it was making friction on the collar and the collar was just too hot. After being underway about 2 ½ hours, we decided Continue reading