Passage from Bahia de Navidad to Puerto Chiapas – Day 6

Thursday December 26 — Last night, we officially entered Gulf of Tehuantepec. The Gulf of Tehuantepec is “lowest landform between Mexico and Northern Central America, allowing unhindered wind passage from the Gulf of Mexico.” What that means is that it’s a giant wind tunnel that is often extremely treacherous. 

Even though the weather forecasting model had predicted no wind, we’d learned the hard way that the adage “keep one foot on shore” was good advice for this Gulf. So, rather than cutting across the bay, we followed the shoreline. Had we cut across the bay, we could have reached our destination a half-day sooner, but we’d decided it wasn’t worth the risk. 

As promised, the wind was light, the seas were calm and the ride was smooth. We were amazed at how little motion there was. It felt more like we were in San Diego Bay than the open ocean! It was another overcast night with no visible moon, making it very dark. 

We neared Puerto Salinas around midnight, which is a busy shipping port. There was some kind of refinery in the port that made the air smell really smoky and dirty, so we had to keep the boat closed up until we were far away from the port.

By noon, the conditions were the same: very light wind and seas so calm that it was more like a lake than an ocean. It was 93.4 degrees Fahrenheit outside – the hottest day we’ve seen yet. With no wind, the heat was unbearable. We broke down and ran the AC.  

We broke up several more bird parties throughout the day:

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The Grand Bay Hotel

The sunrise on Friday, December 20 was muted by clouds.

After schoolwork, morning chores, and a visit from the French baker, we went to pool for a few hours. 

In the early afternoon, the company that handles a lot of the boat maintenance in the basin (ie. washing, bottom cleanings, etc) threw a Christmas party for the cruisers. That was a nice opportunity to meet fellow cruisers and get good information for our upcoming travels. 

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Barra de Navidad and Colimilla

Sunrise on Thursday, December 19

Reports were that, while the water here at the marina was clean, the salinity could vary, so sometimes it wasn’t drinkable. This morning, Eric tested the water and was excited that the salinity was low enough to fill the tanks. As he was setting up the water pre-filter, he shouted to Christi and Keith to stop doing school work and to come outside. We saw the famous French Baker boat was in the marina. We flagged them down, and they came over to our boat so we could buy pastries. The pastries were delicious. We could get used to fresh pastries delivered to our door every morning.

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Welcome (Back) to Bahia de Navidad, Jalisco, Mexico

Our last sunrise in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. on Tuesday, December 17

Eric checked out with the port captain and the marina office. We did all of the last-minute things to get Kosmos ready for sea, and we untied at noon for our 22-hour passage. 

We are happy to report that the seas were mostly calm. In Bahia de Banderas we had some small head seas. When we went around Cabo Corrientes, we were braced for bad conditions since that patch of water was notorious for being confused and turbulent, but it was actually pretty good conditions. Beyond Cabo Corrientes, the swell was from the rear at long intervals and there was little wind chop.  

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