Passage Matthew Town, Great Inagua Island, Bahamas to Little Harbor, Long Island, Bahamas

Monday, March 10, continued – Daylight savings time began yesterday, so now in this part of the world the sun doesn’t rise until well after 0700. When we’d entered Matthew Town this morning at about 0845, the sun was still low in the sky and the water looked dark blue. When we exited the harbor at around 1030, the sun was higher and the water was stunning. In the shallows near the harbor it was a gorgeous turquoise, with a distinct line of dark blue where the water got deeper.

Sea conditions were the same as last reported: swells were about 2 – 3-feet at 6-seconds with 1 – 2 foot wind chop waves at rapid intervals. The wind was still hovering at 10-knots. On the passage from Jamaica to Matthew Town, we’d been heading northeast directly into the wind and waves. Now we were headed northwest, so the waves were coming from the rear corner of the boat instead of the front. And where the waves hit made all the difference in the world: it was actually a pretty comfortable ride now!

During the day, it was sunny with scattered clouds. Here was the sunset.

Continue reading

Passage from Port Antonio, Jamaica to Matthew Town, Great Inagua Island, Bahamas

Saturday, March 8 — We untied from the dock in Port Antonio at about 1130. As soon as we left the bay and got out into the open ocean, the swells were about 3-feet at 6-seconds, directly on our nose. The wind was about 10-knots, creating about 1-foot wind waves, also directly on the nose. We were hobby-horsing like crazy. Eric immediately got sick. Keith initially felt okay, but once he started looking at his screen, it didn’t take long before he was sick, too. 

Wind and sea conditions stayed the same all of Saturday, and Eric and Keith were sick all of Saturday. During the day, it was sunny with scattered clouds. At night, the 3/4 full moon shone so brightly it was like a spotlight, making the stars barely visible. However, after the moon set, the stars were vibrant.

Dawn on Sunday

Continue reading

Piglet’s, Exploding Rockets, and Getting Ready to Go

Thursday, March 6, continued — Not long after Michael dropped us off at the marina, we headed back out to get dinner. Several people had told us that Piggy’s was the best jerk chicken in town. Others told us that Piglets was even better. You’d think with the names Piggy’s and Piglet’s, they’d serve pork, but they both only served chicken and sides. Ed told us that Piggy’s owner looked like a pig and thus Piggy was his nickname. He also told us that the owner of Piglet’s had once worked as a chef for Piggy’s. Piggy’s had burned down, and rather than waiting for Piggy’s to be rebuilt, the chef opened Piglet’s.

We’d planned to eat at Piggy’s since it was in an actual building and it looked like we could eat inside. John saw us leaving and insisted on escorting us. Piggy’s was on the main road that paralleled East Harbor. As we neared Piggy’s, John insisted that we go to Piglet’s, instead, which was just another block or so down the road.

Piglet’s had no menus or signs, so we had no idea what our food choices were beyond jerk chicken. A batch of something yummy looking had just come out of the deep fryer, so when the cashier asked which side we wanted, we pointed to those. Since Piglet’s had no seating, we took it back to the boat to eat it. Here we are walking back towards the boat on a sidewalk that wins for most scenic and most treacherous.

Continue reading

Exploring Port Antonio, Jamaica

Monday, March 3 — After being in the jungle at Shelter Bay marina for over a month, we were used to waking up to a cacophony of chirping birds. This morning, there were chirping birds, but they were overshadowed by crowing roosters and car traffic. The air smelled distinctly of smoke. Yup, we were back in a city. 

We were sad to report that it never rained. At 0900, Eric was at the marina office to request that the water be turned on so we could rinse the boat. While rinsing the boat had certainly helped with the salt accumulation, in order to eliminate it, we needed to hand scrub. We did some scrubbing in easily accessible spots, but we’d have to go back to scrub the rest of the boat later. We also noted that the marina’s pipes have a significant leak — no wonder they only turn them water on upon request.

This morning, we found out what the warning that the locals were too nice meant. At several different points in time, we were greeted by locals offering assorted services. And when we said no to one service, they had another and another and another service that they offered. They each kept pushing until they found something we’d buy. One roped us into buying locally grown coffee, another a jerk spice mix and jerk sauce. Both promised to procure “the best” and return later with their respective products. And in all fairness, both products were indeed great, though we suspect the markup for the delivery was huge.  

Continue reading

Welcome to Port Antonio, Portland Parish, Jamaica

Sunday, March 2 — Tonight was a rare astronomical event — a seven planet alignment, with several of the plants visible to the naked eye. But sadly, the seas were too uncomfortable for us to even consider sitting outside to see it.

By midnight, we could see lights from southern Jamaica in the distance. By dawn, we were close enough to be in the shelter of the island and the waves became a little smaller. We could also smell smoke – not an unpleasant smoke, like a fire, but like smoking food. 

Shortly after dawn, we rounded the western corner of the island. Our change in direction meant we went from head seas to beam seas. Eric’s seasickness instantly vanished. As we trekked north, we ran close to shore. From what we could see, Jamaica was mountainous and lush.

It only took a couple of hours to go from the southern side of the island to Port Antonio, located on the north-eastern side of the island. We turned into a bay named East Harbor, then immediately turned into a channel between the tip of the mainland peninsula and Navy Island that led into a bay called West Harbor.

Entering East Harbor, Port Antonio
The channel between East Harbor and West Harbor, Port Antonio
Continue reading