Welcome to Ende City, Flores Island, Nusa Tenggara Province, Indonesia

08′ 50S by 121′ 30.8E – Flores Islands was conquered by the Portuguese prior to being taken over by the Dutch, hence the name. Flores, like Timor, has a large Christian population as a result of Portuguese missionary efforts. Before the Portuguese arrived, the natives of Flores had already been conquered by the kingdom of a nearby island, Sulawesi. The natives of Flores comprise five separate cultural groups that did not have a lot of interaction with one another due to the rugged terrain that made travel between areas extremely difficult.

The island of Flores came into view several hours before we arrived. At first it reminded us of the Marquesas, with large, dramatic volcanic mountains, the highest of the peaks enshrouded in mist. But as we got closer we saw that, while green with a lot of vegetation, the mountains are not nearly as lush as the Marquesas. Ende is a port town on the south side of the island with 80,000 inhabitants. It is nestled in a bay protected by a peninsula that juts out. As we rounded the peninsula, we were amazing to see that there was a smoking volcano next to us on the shore. The highest peak wasn’t the one smoking, it was a smaller peak only half the size, maybe 500 feet tall. The smoke has a yellowish tint. There are yellow stains around the crest from the sulfur and a jagged line of reddish looking dirt with no vegetation that runs down the face, likely from where lava once flowed down.

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Once we rounded the corner Continue reading

Bemo Tour of Kupang

Christi slept for 14 blissful hours and woke up refreshed and feeling great. Eric slept for about 9 and woke up still feeling tired. We were supposed to meet Napa back at the Lavalon at 11:00. We figured we could get in a couple of hours of sightseeing first. By 08:30 it was so hot you would think you were in a furnace. Instead of sightseeing, we ran the air conditioning and enjoyed the cool until it was time to go.

Napa had said he would be by as soon as he was done with customs and immigration, about 11:00, maybe 12:00. He showed up at 1400 (2:00 pm) to let us know he thought it would be another hour.

While we were sitting there, we had been watching the public transit vehicles go by. They are low, small mini-vans called bemos. Normally, we pay virtually no attention at all to public transit vehicles, but the bemos are something of a spectacle. They are Continue reading

Check In to Kupang

The ride inside the channel was pretty. There were islands on all sides of us. As we got closer to the islands in the channel to Timor, we could see that, while there is a lot of foliage, it is actually pretty dry, with much of the shrubbery brown. From 10 miles away we could see the tall structures of the city of Kupang in the distance to the right. We could easily pick out a refinery, with it’s big smoke stack. All the other surrounding islands have few structures, maybe one or two low buildings here or there.

Kupang has a population of 350,000 people. The refinery must be on the edge of town. We passed the refinery and moved towards the heart of the city, looking for the anchorage. The shore line is pretty sad looking. There are a few extremely nice buildings, but most need some serious work, and a few are dilapidated shacks that look like they will collapse at any second. There are several half built buildings that you get the sense will never be finished.

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We were pretty sure that Continue reading

Australia to Indonesia – Day 2 & 3

Yesterday the conditions were identical to what we last reported. We were loving life, thinking it couldn’t get any better. But then it did! Early this morning the wind died completely, leaving the ocean smooth and glassy. The clouds in the sky were reflected on the water. The swell was still there, but with the wind chop gone, the ride was smoother. It stayed calm until sunset. Then the light wind returned and conditions went from fabulous back down to only really good. And, Eric saw a Leopard shark, which was icing on the cake.

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Our only complaint is Continue reading

Thursday Island, Australia to Kupang, Indonesia — Day 1

Yesterday, our first stop was fuel for Kosmos. We had an appointment at 09:00 and we filled up with duty free fuel at only AUS$1.11 per liter (~ $4/gal USD). Ouch. At least it was cheaper than filling up in Cairns by about 35 cents per liter. The fuel dock is made for taller boats and getting off of it was tricky. After we were done pumping, they told us to go and re-anchor and come back later to pay. We suppose that with 8 zillion customs boats and planes patrolling the area, they figured we couldn’t get too far away if we decided not to pay.

We re-anchored, paid, and then hopped the ferry to TI. Debbie and Jim were kind enough to let us use their internet again. The other day we had run off so fast after looking at the forecast that we hadn’t checked email, posted blogs, or done any of the other stuff we need to do on-line. While doing a little research on Indonesia, we realized that our intended first stop, Saumlaki, isn’t normally Continue reading