Category Archives: Italy

Boats in Danger and Emergency Rescues – Part 2 of 3

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Continued from yesterday… Once Eric climbed aboard, he noticed that things in the cockpit were sliding out under the door. We lost a plastic mat we keep back there, but Eric was able to save the shoes that were back there, bringing them inside. He opened the back door and turned on the light switch. He knew power was still working, since the anchor light and little red LED courtesy lights were on around the outside of the boat. He first noticed the hallway refrigerator had come open and almost every single thing inside it had fallen out and smashed on the floor. Lots of stuff that had been sitting out had been thrown to new places. The good news was that Eric didn’t hear any sounds of the bottom crunching against the rocks. He went into the pilot house and saw both bilge pumps were running. Oh no. Eric turned on the engine, and then ran downstairs. The whole engine room was flooded with about a foot of water. It was now about 2145.

Eric ran back upstairs and showed Louis how to use the manual bilge pump located in the starboard aft locker. Louis pumped away. Eric turned on Continue reading →

Volcanoes, Boats in Danger, and Emergency Rescues – Part 1 of 3

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Preface: This blog story is of the scariest night of Christi and Eric’s lives. Tai leads a far more adventurous life than us, but it was still high on his list of scary events. This is one of those truth is stranger than fiction stories, but we swear every word of it is true. This is by far the longest story we have ever written on the blog. As we usually do for exceptionally long stories, we have broken it up into multiple parts. Normally, we like to keep each post 2 pages or less, and we have never had a post longer than 3 pages. Until now. This story is so long that we have broken it into three 4 1/2 page posts. If you didn’t read the last two posts, you probably should before reading this one since there is some useful background info in them. And we know, weather reports are not always accurate, and just because a bunch of other boats stay someplace does not make it safe. Also this is a good time to remind people the blog is not in real time. This event has happened in the past. See About this Blog.

So, yesterday we wake up to rocky seas. We were rolling like crazy, worse than being at sea. The water was a bit too shallow to deploy the paravanes. The rough seas were weird because it wasn’t windy and it looked like a pretty nice day. We were also bummed when we realized that the entire boat was covered in a fine black sand. We were afraid that it wouldn’t come off very easily, just as the sand from Tunisia hadn’t. Oh well, we’ll worry about it when we get to Rome.

We were desperate to get off the boat and get to dry land. As we were getting ready to go, Tai said “Hey, do you know what the name of the town here is? Scari! Oooo, scary! Ha! Ha! Ha!” As we were almost ready to walk out the door, a speed boat pulls up alongside us and Continue reading →

Exploring Stromboli

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The pier at Scari is a good 6 feet above the water line. It has a lot of traffic from small passenger ferries coming and going with loads of tourists. We pulled up to a staircase, hopped out, then tied Kosmopolitan up so that she was floating under the pier, out of the way of all the ferries. The weather had cleared up nicely. The sun was out and it had turned into a beautiful afternoon.

Our first goal of the day was to find lunch. We walked along the main drag and only found one open restaurant that served real food (as opposed to snack foods). We went inside and found out that in between lunch and dinner, they only serve snack food, as well. We resigned ourselves to snack food and ordered something called arancini that Tai told us was a sticky rice ball with meat in the middle that are pretty good. What came out was a sticky rice ball with a sort of stew meat and veggies in the center, but it had been deep fried hours earlier and reheated in the microwave. It was greasy as all get out and pretty darn gross. Tai assured us that this is not how they normally are.

Once we had a little food in our tummies, the next goal was to find a tour company to take us to the volcano. We were hoping to do a sunset hike. All the tourist information places in the tiny downtown were closed for the afternoon break. We decided to take a stroll along the waterfront to look for banks and tour companies. The shoreline along the waterfront is all black sand. It looks more like an asphalt parking lot waiting for the lines to be painted than a beach. We noticed there were no cars on the road, just golf carts and tuk tuks (tiny three wheeled vehicles). Even the taxis are golf carts. The road is barely wide enough for one car. Almost all the buildings are white, and most have blue trim. It actually reminds us a lot of a small Santorini, except without churches with domed blue roofs. It looks to be mostly hotels and a few private residences. There are a lot of flowering plants in people’s gardens, which adds to the loveliness of the setting

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After walking for a while, the road narrowed. We assumed it was a pedestrian only path because there was no way a car could possibly fit on this little narrow lane. But we were wrong. The little golf carts buzzed up and down the tiny lane, with only inches of clearance on each side. There wasn’t enough room for Continue reading →

Welcome to Stromboli Island, Aeolian Islands, Sicily, Italy

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We found out that while we were in Palermo, we had missed a festival in Trapani. There were apparently fire eaters, which impressed Bill. Oh well.

Yesterday we did the usual get ready to go routine, including a trip to the grocery store. The day before, when we were in the first market in Palermo, Christi had said at least 5 times that we should stock up on fruit here, where there were zillion of produce vendors selling every type of produce imaginable. Most of it looked lovely. But we didn’t. So, we stood in a grocery store, staring at a small selection of nasty looking fruit. The apples and bananas looked edible, so we got some of those. Every grocery store we have been to outside of the US there is a person whose job it is to weigh the produce and print a little sticker with the total before you get in line to check out. This grocery store has a self use scale and sticker printer machine. The directions are, of course, in Italian. Tai and Christi couldn’t figure out how to use it. Mind you, Tai is involved in producing cutting edge software, and the scale baffled him. So, we gave up on the grocery store and drove around town in search of a street fruit vendor. This was a blessing in disguise. The street vendor’s fruit was beautiful and a fraction of the price of the shriveled up fruit in the grocery store.

Anyway, once we had taken out the trash, stocked up on food, stowed away the things that like to go flying at sea, and checked the weather one last time to make sure conditions still looked good, and we were ready to go. We said our goodbyes to Bill and Ellen and pulled out. At first, the sea conditions were rocky and rough, which was odd given that the wind speed was low. We figured the waves are leftovers from yesterday’s storm. At one point, Tai was standing outside the pilot house with the pilot house door open. Eric shut the pilot house door, telling Tai he didn’t want to chance a wave coming over the side and getting the pilot house wet. No more than three minutes later, a big wave came over the side and drenched Tai. Tai looked rather surprised and said “I guess I should have clued in when you shut the door”.

As the day wore on, the seas got Continue reading →

Welcome to Palermo, Sicily, Italy

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We were supposed to meet our friend, Tai, in Palermo today with Kosmos. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate with our plans. It was windy and choppy on the seas. So, we rented a car, instead. We drove up to Cinisi to pick Tai up from his hotel. Cinisi is a small town near the Palermo airport, about 31 kilometers west of from the city of Palermo.

Outside the town of Trapani, the landscape is exactly what you imagine Italy to be. Gently rolling hills with acre upon acre of farmland, empty windy roads, and a farmhouse dotting the landscape here and there. It looks like a sports car ad. It is beautiful. Here there are more vineyards and less fruit orchards. There also seems to be a bigger variety of produce grown than on the other side of the island.

Cinisi is a seaside community, and even has its own little marina. The town is adorable and quaint. We found Tai and headed on to Palermo. We had no real plan for sightseeing, and we weren’t really sure where to go. We followed signs that said “city center”. When we got to where the buildings looked really old, we parked. We had no clue whatsoever where we were. We immediately saw that we had stumbled across one of the three open air markets in the city’s old center. This market was basically vendors selling assorted items from folding tables a long a series of narrow streets. There was a lot of produce, cheese, fish and meats, which made for an interesting combination of smells that Tai commented “is not always pleasant”. There were also a lot of low end miscellaneous items you’d find at a 99 cents store. It was hard to get a good look at the buildings behind the vendors, but they looked pretty run down from what we could tell. We made our way through the market and continued on, finding the train station. Ah ha! A land marker! We now knew where we were, but, unfortunately, not where we had left the car.

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We decided to head to the center of the historic district, Quattro Canti (four corners). We followed a main road northwest. What is interesting is Continue reading →