Diving Aure Thomas and Pointe Ferry, Deshaies, Guadeloupe

Today we went on the dive trip we mentioned booking a couple of days back. We were really looking forward to the dives, especially because our cruising guide had made the diving sound so great here. It turned out that the diving was nice, but not anywhere near as good as we had expected. Unfortunately, we had a nightmarish experience with the dive company. We’ll start by telling you about the good stuff, the dive sites, first, then go into the saga about the dive company.

Visibility was fairly good, and we were told today is a bad day and it is usually clearer. It was gloomy and raining hard, so there wasn’t a lot of sunlight getting down into water, and there may have been runoff from the shore. The dive sites were Continue reading

Exploring Basse Terre and the Coffee Museum

This morning we once again said our goodbyes. Colin spent the day puttering around Kosmos and the marina, spending most of his time reading and enjoying the sun between bursts of rain until it was time to take a cab to the airport. Eric and Christi went for a drive to check out Basse Terre.

From Pointe a Pitre we took the highway across Salt River over to the Basse Terre side, then took the coastal road south. The top of the mountains were enshrouded in a thick cloud, and as the road took us higher and lower, we’d pass in and out of the cloud cover. Inside the cloud cover it was cool and damp. Outside the cover it was idyllic temperatures. It rained on and off. We would occasionally see glimpses of the ocean through the clouds.

The entire southeast coast of the island looks to be Continue reading

Exploring Point a Pitre and Gosier

Yesterday at lunch we had scanned through our e-mail messages quickly looking for anything urgent. This morning we actually read through all the messages, which took hours. We also did a little tidying around the boat. Colin packed and got ready for his flight. It didn’t seem like we had done much, but suddenly the morning was gone.

At lunch time, we went to another restaurant within the marina complex. The food was Continue reading

Welcome to Point a Pitre, La Guadeloupe, France

Lights from the island were visible in the wee hours of the morning. There weren’t a lot of lights, but there certainly were enough to make the fact that we were approaching land very obvious and very real. Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!

As the sun rose, we eagerly checked out our new surroundings. The land we had seen on the radar last night was the island of Grande Terre, the eastern half of the butterfly. Shortly before dawn, we had approached from the southeast corner of Grande Terre, and were now following the coastline northwest, so the island was on our right. From what we could see, it looks to be very flat and pretty dry. The western half of the butterfly, Basse Terre, was due west, so it was directly ahead of us in the distance. Basse Terre is mountainous, lush and green, which contrasts sharply with Grande Terre. Even though Basse Terre was much farther away, because of its height, both the island and its infrastructure were more visible that the flat Grande Terre. From what we could tell, both islands were dotted with scattered buildings. As a bit of trivia, in French “Grade Terre” means “big land” and “Basse Terre” means “flat land”, so it seems the French misnamed the two islands. However, the names stem from the amount of wind. Grande Terre, being the easternmost island, gets big winds, and Basse Terre doesn’t get nearly as much wind.

Our destination was just south of where the two islands join together, on the Grande Terre side. As we moved deeper into the bay created by the two side by side islands, slowly but surely the ride became calmer and smoother. At 0930 local time we neared the marina in Point a Pitre, and the men brought in the paravanes. By now we were in pretty well protected waters and it was fairly flat. Once the paravanes were secured, we rounded a corner into an inlet where the marina is located. We’re not totally sure what we were expecting, but it was definitely more modern than we had anticipated. The marina was lined with what seemed like endless 3 and 4 story condominium complexes that all had waterfront views. The condos all seemed like they were high end and fairly new, though, honestly, they looked a bit weather beaten, most likely the after effects of some of the big storms that blow in here during the summers. Across the water from the marina is a series of high end, brand new looking and very attractive commercial buildings.

Both photos are taken from the mouth of the marina inlet. The first photo is looking back at Basse Terre. You can see some boats moored in the distance. The second photo is looking forward, and you can see some of the commercial buildings in the front left and the marina in the back left.

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We called the marina office on the radio and were pleased Continue reading

Gran Canaria to Guadeloupe Days 19 – 20

Day 19 – 1000 UTC location: 16°52.00’N by 056°34.00’W and 2474 nm from Las Palmas. Yesterday’s average speed was 5.8 knots.

Conditions:
Around 0130, the seas picked up even more, though the wind was still dead. It was still an OK ride, but not nearly as nice as it was. By morning, the wind had picked up to 10 knots apparent and shifted to our nose. The swells were only at 4 6 feet on our starboard beam, but they were coming from two directions, north and northeast. The wind waves were at 1 – 2 feet and choppy. The wave intervals and force had picked up, so it was definitely rougher than yesterday. Eric commented that Continue reading