Exploring Siracusa and Catania

This morning we went out for breakfast. Lonely Planet had warned that in Italy they eat only pastries for breakfast. Of course, we only found pastries. We tried ciambellas, which are like Krispy Kreme donuts, but instead of the goopy glaze they are rolled in granulated sugar. No joke Krispy Kreme must have stolen the recipe from the Italians. You can get plain, chocolate filled, cream filled or ricotta filled. Eric went for cream. Christi got a chocolate and a ricotta. She found the chocolate to be too rich, but loved the ricotta one. The donuts here are also noticeably larger than Kristy Kremes.

After breakfast, we rented a car so to do some sightseeing outside of the Ortigya. Beyond the island, it is still mostly very old buildings for quite a ways. How old they are is questionable — probably not Baroque, but certainly in the more than a hundred years category, probably multiple centuries old. It turns into an industrial area with a mix of crumbling old buildings and new buildings. Beyond the industrial area was the outskirts of town.

We turned around and went another direction, driving around what seems to be the heart of the newer city. The buildings are mostly mid-rise, 3 10 stories tall. Most are built in the 20th century and plain, blocky structures, though here and there are a few aesthetically appealing modern buildings. Occasionally, you’d see a few historic buildings scattered in and amongst the new buildings.

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We passed by three churches, all of them very Continue reading

Exploring Ortygia, Old Town Siracusa

The plan was to get up early and move the boat to the sea wall, then go site seeing. Eric ran over to the wall to make sure there was still space, and much to his dismay, there was none. The wall was completely full. Darn.

It is now peak tourist season and the marina we are at has cranked up its prices, and for this month only they were charging a crazy $105 USD per night. It’s a rolly marina , too. We decided to anchor out. The anchorage was flat as a pancake and had less traffic than the marina, so it should be calmer than the marina.

We decided to move after lunch. We went back through the gate into Ortygia and found a little café located in the walkway between two apartment buildings. The actual restaurant was run out of one of the apartments, with tables and chairs set up along the walkway. Of course, there were no tables in front of anyone’s door, so at least the residents could get in and out of their houses. We thought it was neat that the tenants of these buildings had a restaurant not next door but literally at their front doors.

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Eric likes proscuittio and melon. He was excited when Continue reading

Welcome to Siracusa, Sicily, Italy

By 0200, radio was quiet. The Monkey Boy must be out of range now.

We arrived at around 1000 local time. From the distance, we could see the walls of the fort in the water. We had emailed the marina a few days ago to try to get a reservation, and they never responded. We pulled inside the marina, where a worker signaled us to go around back to the outside floating docks. We went where directed, and saw he was standing in front of an open spot. The slip wasn’t much wider than Kosmos. Eric backed Kosmos in slowly, as Christi stood in back pushing us off the boats on either side to help keep centered. The worker tied up the back lines for us and handed us two mooring lines. Eric walked the first line to the front attached the first line with no problem. The second line was too short to tie off. The guy on the boat next to us saw Eric was struggling and jumped from his boat onto ours. The two of them tied one of our ropes to the mooring line to make it long enough to tie off.

Oh, and to clarify how the mooring lines work. The boats always back in. The mooring(s) is/are where the nose of the boat is. There are lines that go from the sea wall/floating dock to the mooring. You take the rope from the sea wall and walk it to the front of your boat, then pull on the line to get it as tight as you can, then tie it to a cleat (metal bar installed around the boat and on docks specifically meant for tying lines on to) at the front of your boat. Since the lines spend most of their time underwater, they are disgusting, full of algae and barnacles. The lines get your hands and clothes all dirty. They are nicknamed “slime lines”. We found out that most of the marinas in the Med use this system (though D-Marin in Turkey has old fashioned moorings where you have to use your boat hook to grab the mooring line or have someone in a dinghy hand it up to you).

Once we were securely berthed, we gave the marina worker a crew list and our vessel documentation. Since we are checked into the EU that is apparently all the paperwork we need to do. We didn’t seem to need to go and visit any authorities. Hmmm. It seems too good to be true that the paperwork is virtually non-existent.

It was weird to stand in the cockpit (back deck) and stare out at buildings that are hundreds of years old. Many are run down, but considering how old they are, they really don’t look that bad. A lot of them have fancy facades and appointments, and in their day were probably glorious. We haven’t actually been docked so close to a historic area before, and we found it to be sort of awe inspiring.

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We were starving, so went in search of food. The old part of Siracusa is called Continue reading

History of Sicily

Like most of the countries in the world, Italy has a long and rich history. People groups, empires, dominant powers, and borders have all changed over and over again throughout the progression of time. The history of Sicily and the southernmost part of the Italian peninsula is dramatically different from the northern regions of Italy, so to keep things simple, we are only reporting on the history of Sicily.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean, located just southwest of the end of the Italian Peninsula. It currently has 5 million inhabitants. The original inhabitants of Sicily are believed to be Continue reading