Islas Coronados to Puerto Escondido — And Alternator

On Friday morning (August 5), the water was again calm and clear when we awoke. We got Kosmos ready for sea first thing in the morning. This included bringing up and securing the dinghy, bringing in and securing the flopper stopper plates/paravane poles, bringing in the snubber line (which is basically a shock absorber for the anchor chain), securing all loose items on board, etc. We weren’t leaving early; we just wanted to have everything done before the tourist pangas started roaring past us, creating wakes. Then we went for a swim around the boat and saw a lot of fish, including a pair of puffers sitting on our chain at the bow of the boat.

We set off for Puerto Escondido a little before noon and arrived around 1500. It is less stressful for us to go someplace we’ve been before. This time we were assigned to a different dock. We spent a couple of hours at the pool and had dinner at the marina restaurant. In the evening, we got to know our new neighbors. 

Here is a picture of the sunset, looking at the north end of the bay. The topography of this picture is important for the next part of the story. While there are taller mountains to the west and south, the east and north parts of the bay are protected by low hills with gaps. 

On Saturday (August 6), in the wee hours of the morning, Eric was awoken again. He saw that wind picked up to 23 knots. There was lightning, thunder and later a heavy rain. Eric was shocked to see that the waves were big enough that they were splashing over the end dock where the big boats tie up.

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Keith’s Perspective on Puerto Escondido and Isla Carmen/Le point de vue de Keith sur Puerto Escondido et Isla Carmen

I liked Puerto Escondido. On Friday, Dan and Drake came over and swam with me. Dad ordered pizza from the marina restaurant. J’ai aimé Puerto Escondido. Vendredi Dan et Drake sont venus et ont nagé avec moi. Papa a commandé une pizza au restaurant de la marina.

On Saturday, we went to Dan’s house. Drake and I played lots of video games. Then we went out to eat. Samedi nous sommes allés à la maison de Dan. Drake et moi nous avons joué à beaucoup de jeux vidéo. Après nous sommes sortis manger dehors.

On Sunday, Dan, Drake, and the kids from a boat named Whirlwind went to the pool. Then Russell and Josie from Whirlwind came over. Dimanche, Dan, Drake, moi et les enfants d’un bateau appelé Whirlwind sommes allés à la piscine. Après Russel et Josie de Whirlwind sont venus.

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Isla Coronados Days 2 – 3

On Wednesday morning, Eric was woken up at 0400 by some noise. He went up to check to see if all was okay, and found that we were in the middle of a quite a bit of wind and the boat had moved a lot. There was also an occasional bolt of lightning, but no thunder. In the summer, it is not uncommon for windstorms to hit the Sea of Cortez between 0300 and 0500.

On the wind gauge you can see the wind picked up speed from almost zero knots to over 20 knots in 45 minutes. Christi and Keith awoke not long after Eric did. On VHF radio Eric heard a call out to boats in the anchorage saying that it looked like one of the sailboats was dragging. Eric responded, but the sailboat that was possibly dragging did not. Eric blew a portable air horn 5 times towards the sailboats, but the other sailboat boat nearby said the wind was too loud and could not hear it. Eric turned on the radar and monitored not only our boat, but all the boats in the anchorage for dragging. Fortunately after the initial movement from the wind, no one dragged. This picture is blurry, but it shows how much and how fast we moved when the wind kicked in. Usually it is small movements around a spot after we anchor, this was a big continuous move as the wind really picked up.

The winds calmed down at dawn, but the swell caused by the winds persisted for most of the day. The swells were exacerbated by the pangas (little fishing boats) speeding past us with the tourists. We met the person on the boat who Eric talked to. He was glad we were able to monitor the boats with our radar. His name was Nick, and we decided the next day we would go do the hike up the volcano together.

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V-Cove at Isla Carmen to Isla Coronados

Here is a photo of the area we went snorkeling in on Saturday. We were in the small, shallow strait between Isla Carmen and the tiny rock island. The anchorage is just to the right (south) of where this photo ends.

On Sunday morning, it rained again. The rain didn’t last as long as it had yesterday, but it rained harder, so Kosmos got a good wash down. Undeterred by the heavy rain, the Erics went for a hike onshore.

They literally watched the flora and fauna come to life with the rain – flowers blooming and bugs and lizards coming out of hiding. 

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Puerto Escondido to V Cove on Isla Carmen

On Tuesday, our friends on Whirlwind (the sailboat with the kids) and Sprezzatura (the Nordhavn 40) had gone to an anchorage called V Cove on Isla Carmen. On Thursday, we joined them. We left the marina in Puerto Escondido at 0930. We were delighted to find there was no wind and the water was calm and glassy. It barely felt like the boat was moving!

We arrived at V cove at 1400 (2:00 pm), not long after the wind picked up and the sea conditions had begun to deteriorate. The anchorage was small, tucked behind some cliffs.

We dropped anchor on the outskirts. According to the charts, we were anchored on land. After waiting a little bit to make sure the anchor was secure, we got the dinghy down and went to shore. There is a small, white sand beach with a sand dune. Eric and Keith snorkeled for a bit. The cove was loaded with fish! The family from Whirlwind joined us. The kids ran on the dune for a short while, then snorkeled in and around one of the caves in the cove. 

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