Boat Maintenance and Tunisian Foods

It rained more throughout that night we woke the next morning (yesterday) to dark gray skies, intermittent light rain, and cool temperatures. It was almost cool enough to need a thin long sleeve shirt, but not quite. Shorts and tees are still comfortable, but barely. We are so happy about the change in the weather. After a year and a half of perpetual summer, we are ready for the cooler temperatures of autumn. We are most happy for those celebrating Ramadan. Life without water will be so much easier with it being relatively cool out.

Since our trip to the desert had been long and exhausting, yesterday was a quiet, relaxing day aboard Kosmos. Our big adventure was going to eat. We tried the Tex-Mex place. Turns out there were a few Mexican food items on the menu, but they hadn’t posted them outside for some reason. The rest of the menu was pretty standard western fare, with pasta, seafood, steaks. The Mexican items looked a bit scary. Fajitas and burritos were listed under the “cold appetizer” section. The main courses were totally non-descript, such as “Mexican Fiesta Platter”. Christi decided to stick to normal western fare. Eric, ever the optimist, ordered a burrito. Out came Continue reading

Quad Riding in the Sahara and Lightning Storms

Continued from yesterday”¦ From the hotel/set we walked over to another one of the privately owned underground houses that the owner has turned into a “museum”. This house was similar to the second house we saw, except that the living room was at the end of the entrance tunnel, near the outlet to the courtyard, rather than at the front of the tunnel. This is the owner in her living room.

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We found out that several families used to share these houses, with communal kitchen and storage areas, and each family lived in one room. The rooms are Continue reading

The Medina and Special Ramadan Dinner

Today we made sure to have a big meal in the marina complex before leaving to go sightseeing. We each ordered the biggest breakfast on the menu, the Arab breakfast. It came with eggs and bread, as well as a healthy serving of a thick soft cheese covered in honey. The cheese is different than anything we have had before.

We can see how it would be easier to be faithful to Ramadan when there are no restaurants open, you get to go home from work early, and everyone around you participating. But we don’t know how the people who work in Port Yasmine Hammamet do it when they have to watch tourists stuffing their faces and don’t get to go home early. So we asked our waiter about fasting. He said it was a way of life and you just deal with the headaches and thirst and stomach pains. When we pressed him about how hard it must be to serve food while not eating, he commented it would be a heck of a lot harder for him to resist Tunisian food than it is to resist the western food.

Anyway, we drove back to Tunis. Yesterday we forgot to comment on the driving. Driving in Tunisia is significantly better than in Italy or Turkey, but still crazier than America. The roads are nice and wide, which helps a lot. In Tunisia, red traffic lights are viewed as a yield sign. They slow down, and if Continue reading

Diving and Exploring Tunis & the Coast

Today we started the day by going diving. The dive center is near the marina office. We met at 0800 and piled into a large speedboat. The boat took us out about 15 minutes away from the marina to a site called Rochio Venus. It is a nice dive site, with excellent visibility and warm water.

Like in Greece, there isn’t a whole lot of color in the water here. There is a plant we believe is called Posidonia that dominates the area. Posidonia looks like thick, long grass. It is green near the roots, but turns white higher up on the grass blades. We saw it in Crete, as well, but there is not very much of it there. Eric said he felt like we were flying above grain fields.

In and amongst the Posidonia is a round, green, delicate plant about the size of the top of a soda can that looks like a green flower. There is also a Continue reading

The Maritime Museum, The Blue Lagoon and Passage to Tunisia

Yesterday Eric was up early to work on the generator. He added more coolant. He took apart the intake hose to see if maybe something was stuck (or maybe even growing) inside it. It was totally clear. Then he tested the flow of the water from the through hull. It seemed slow. Hmmm. Something was stuck on the intake under the boat. We did a quick check on that before, but did not find anything. Something to check again when we get to cleaner water.

The streets were again decorated with banners, different from the ones we saw last week, and also with flags. The fireworks started at 0800. By 1000 we could hear several marching bands playing in the street.

We were in no rush to leave, so we decided to make a stop by the maritime museum before heading out. Like most of the buildings in the area, the museum is made of limestone and each level has crazy high ceilings. The museum is fairly large, and it has a nice collection of the standard maritime museum stuff. There are all kinds of old navigation instruments, uniforms, weapons, anchors, fenders, amphoras, really early inverters, and other accoutrements for life at sea. In a room of more modern equipment, there were even some missiles. There were models of all kinds of boats throughout the display, and one entire room was turned into a full scale model of the engine room of a real Maltese dredging ship, the Anadrian. There is an exhibit on the history of the steamship, as well as an exhibit on the era when the British turned Malta into a major naval base. And, oddly enough, there was a traveling exhibit featuring clown art. It was kind of random to walk from the life-size replica of a work ship into a room full of clowns.

After we left the museum, we headed out on Kosmos. We really didn’t need to leave for Tunisia until sunset, but we wanted to stop by an anchorage called The Blue Lagoon off the island of Camino, between Gozo and Malta Islands. We were told it is just beautiful and we would love it. Apparently, everyone in the entire country of Malta who owns a boat decided to go there, too. It was a zoo. We were pretty uncomfortable with how tightly packed the boats were, so we anchored out in the fringes, only to have some other boats drop anchor disconcertingly close to us. We were also shocked at how fast some of the boats were zooming around in the anchorage, weaving in and out of the anchored boats and getting much too close to hulls and anchor chains.

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Eric donned a mask and jumped in for a swim. He started checking under the boat and ah hah! He found a plastic bag stuck in the intake on the port side of the boat. It turns out we were mistaken about which through hull the generator was attached to when Christi did the quick check. Eric excitedly got out and turned on the generator. It was back to normal temperature and there was no white smoke. Yay! Generator mystery solved. Eric also cleaned the Continue reading