Welcome to Golfito, Costa Rica

Since the seas had been so calm on this passage, we pulled into Golfo Dulce (Sweet Gulf) at around 0230, hours earlier than we anticipated when we plotted the course. Going in at night was of zero concern, though, because the visibility was like daylight. We could see the land on both sides of us clearly, as well as floating obstacles like tree trunks. And yes, we did see a few tree trunks in there! The aroma in the bay was so strong that it was almost overwhelming rich, fertile soil and sweet tropical plants. It smelled so good. The wind picked up and the water got a touch of wind chop, but it was still a great ride. Here is a shot of the moon after the wind picked up. Note how clear the mountain is.

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We meandered Continue reading

Checking Out of Panama

Today the plan was to get an early start. We’d check out of the country and go to the grocery store in the morning, then spend a leisurely afternoon getting the boat ready for sea and pull up anchor at 1700.

It all started off well. On the way in to shore, we saw a big, pretty jellyfish in the water. We stopped to watch it for a couple of minutes. They are so graceful and elegant. Over the few days we have been here, we managed to pawn off 14 of the tires to assorted cruisers getting ready to transit. We had our 6 remaining tires in the dinghy with us. We carried them up the huge ramp to the trash dumpster, and paid the disposal fee at the same office we pay the dinghy fee. It was low tide, so it was a steep walk up that ramp.

We hopped in a taxi and went to Continue reading

Looking Around La Playita Anchorage Area

Today Christi woke up feeling better. Thank goodness. Fortunately, antibiotics didn’t seem like they would be necessary now. Jeff was leaving today, so this morning he packed up and got ready to go. When he was ready, we went to shore and had lunch at the closest restaurant to the dinghy dock, just on the backside of the shopping center we mentioned. As we were walking in, we saw the strangest thing. A car was towing a small airplane!

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The restaurant is a cute place — a round hut made of bamboo and palm fronds with a very high ceiling. We got ceviche for an appetizer. Ceviche is a dip made of small pieces of raw fish or other seafood marinated in lime juice and flavored with things like onion, tomato, cilantro, and chili peppers. It is a Mexican staple and we all like ceviche. Usually, you can’t taste the fish at all. Everyone makes ceviche a little differently. Some are amazingly good and you can’t stop eating them. Others are just OK. This one was pretty good, but not great. Christi didn’t have any, worried that raw fish might be too much for her digestive system right now.

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We all ordered fish, and the dishes came with Continue reading

Exploring Panama City

Christi was once again up very early with a sick tummy. She was worse than ever. She contemplated starting on antibiotics, but decided to give it one more day to pass on its own. The nice thing about being up so early the last few days is that she has seen some nice sunrises. Here is today’s.

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From where we sat, we could see four of the islands. They all seem to be Continue reading

Completing the Transit and the Scary Anchorage

Continued from yesterday”¦ At 1345, when we pulled into the lock quay, we were told we were tying to a tug. We could see it up ahead, already tied up along the chamber wall in front of the gate. Its name is Atlas III and at the moment it was being used as a tourist tug that takes spectators up and down the Miraflores locks. Davidson told us that the tug is owned by the Canal Authority and is also used as an employee shuttle and to give orientation tours to the employees and their families.

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We didn’t get handed any lines. Instead, we pulled forward, lined ourselves up to the tug and tied up. The tie up was a little bit tricky. We had to readjust all our fenders to line up better with their fenders. We realized there was a vulnerable spot that couldn’t be properly fendered, so Eric had to move Kosmos a little bit so that our alignment against the tug changed in a way that the fenders would sit better. Here we all are frantically adjusting lines.

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After a little more minor fender adjusting, we finally felt comfortable that we were adequately protected and gave the all clear to Davidson. The tourists on board gawked at us as we Continue reading