Eric had been so focused on the wind speed forecast that he’d forgotten to check swell size. Out in the Pacific, 100 miles west of Cabo San Lucas, the waves were expected be 44-feet at 15-seconds on Wednesday. Cabo’s forecast was 24-foot waves. We are so glad we moved north!
In our neck of the woods, on Thursday, when the storm would be at its peak up here, there would be 4-foot swells. But Friday morning the waves were supposed to build to 10 feet. Guess we won’t be going anywhere on Friday. The seas were expected to calm back down on Saturday.
Sunday, September 4 – The alarm went off at 0500. Outside, there was no wind or rain, and the skies were partly cloudy. Eric did a quick weather check to see is the forecasts had changed. They’d both worsened. One model said the sustained winds were expected to be 29 knots with gusts to 55 knots. The other model said sustained winds of 52 knots, with gusts to 66 knots. The storm would hit on Wednesday morning, peak on Thursday night and die down Friday around noon. There would be .25 inch of rain every hour. Fortunately, the eye, which would bring 87-mph winds, would stay over the Pacific, so we would miss the worst of it.
We determined that yes, we really did need to go to Don Juan. We did a few last minute things to finish getting Kosmos ready for sea and pulled up anchor at about 0600. Oddly enough, there were tons of dead termites all over the exterior of the boat.
Our first stop was The Village, which was a short 45-minute ride. When we pulled into the anchorage, the panga fishing fleet was there. We anchored farther away from shore than we had initially intended to so that we could stay far away from the fishermen.
Saturday (August 20) was another cool day. Feeling motivated, Eric removed all the gear that we keep stored in front of the air compressor, then detached the compressor from its mount under the lazarette. He moved the compressor to be under the hatch so that he could stand over it and comfortably work on it from all angles.
He tried to refurbish the third pressure stage. He opened it up and took it apart, only to realize he needed yet another special tool, and this time he didn’t think he could fabricate one. He decided to simply clean it and change an O-ring.
Since the rain had not cooperated, Christi and Keith spent the morning washing the boat and doing other boat chores. It is amazing how much energy and motivation we have when the weather is cool!
In the afternoon, Christi, Keith and Brett went to lunch at a café called Ma’s. Eric was waiting for the water guy and said he’d join us once our water was delivered. Unfortunately, the dock water in Santa Rosalia isn’t up to many cruisers’ standards, so there is bottled water delivery service to the marina on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
After lunch, Christi and the boys went to what we’d thought was the museum. It was closed. Upon closer inspection, it looked like the museum may still be under construction and not yet open to the public. Or maybe the building was refurbished and is not currently being utilized.
On Wednesday morning, Eric was woken up at 0400 by some noise. He went up to check to see if all was okay, and found that we were in the middle of a quite a bit of wind and the boat had moved a lot. There was also an occasional bolt of lightning, but no thunder. In the summer, it is not uncommon for windstorms to hit the Sea of Cortez between 0300 and 0500.
On the wind gauge you can see the wind picked up speed from almost zero knots to over 20 knots in 45 minutes. Christi and Keith awoke not long after Eric did. On VHF radio Eric heard a call out to boats in the anchorage saying that it looked like one of the sailboats was dragging. Eric responded, but the sailboat that was possibly dragging did not. Eric blew a portable air horn 5 times towards the sailboats, but the other sailboat boat nearby said the wind was too loud and could not hear it. Eric turned on the radar and monitored not only our boat, but all the boats in the anchorage for dragging. Fortunately after the initial movement from the wind, no one dragged. This picture is blurry, but it shows how much and how fast we moved when the wind kicked in. Usually it is small movements around a spot after we anchor, this was a big continuous move as the wind really picked up.
The winds calmed down at dawn, but the swell caused by the winds persisted for most of the day. The swells were exacerbated by the pangas (little fishing boats) speeding past us with the tourists. We met the person on the boat who Eric talked to. He was glad we were able to monitor the boats with our radar. His name was Nick, and we decided the next day we would go do the hike up the volcano together.
Here is a photo of the area we went snorkeling in on Saturday. We were in the small, shallow strait between Isla Carmen and the tiny rock island. The anchorage is just to the right (south) of where this photo ends.
On Sunday morning, it rained again. The rain didn’t last as long as it had yesterday, but it rained harder, so Kosmos got a good wash down. Undeterred by the heavy rain, the Erics went for a hike onshore.
They literally watched the flora and fauna come to life with the rain – flowers blooming and bugs and lizards coming out of hiding.