Category Archives: Information

Information we discovered during our travels.

Rock Stars in Ende

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This morning we managed to sleep through the 0430 prayers, but we were awakened at 0600 by another loudspeaker. There was an announcer of some sort talking away, with a few songs played in between his monologues. There were also short snippets of music played now and again while he talked. It sounded like there was some sort of contest going on in a carnival type setting. We begrudgingly dragged ourselves out of bed and looked out the windows. There seemed to be something huge happening along the waterfront park area. There were tons of people out and a lot of activity in an area where there was not much happening when we had been there a couple days before.

We merrily went to shore, excited about our luck to have been in Ende for this big special occasion. We were shocked to see the crew was hard at work on repairing the dock. It is Sunday. On shore, the streets had been transformed. Every single shop was open. Yesterday many had been closed. The sidewalks were completely taken over by an endless row of vendors sitting on the ground with their wares spread out around them. They were even lining the alley ways. They were selling all kinds of non-perishable goods. The street was absolutely jam packed with people and scooters.

We made our way down the street to the waterfront park where we had seen all the activity from Kosmos. As we turned the corner, Continue reading →

Welcome to Ende City, Flores Island, Nusa Tenggara Province, Indonesia

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08′ 50S by 121′ 30.8E – Flores Islands was conquered by the Portuguese prior to being taken over by the Dutch, hence the name. Flores, like Timor, has a large Christian population as a result of Portuguese missionary efforts. Before the Portuguese arrived, the natives of Flores had already been conquered by the kingdom of a nearby island, Sulawesi. The natives of Flores comprise five separate cultural groups that did not have a lot of interaction with one another due to the rugged terrain that made travel between areas extremely difficult.

The island of Flores came into view several hours before we arrived. At first it reminded us of the Marquesas, with large, dramatic volcanic mountains, the highest of the peaks enshrouded in mist. But as we got closer we saw that, while green with a lot of vegetation, the mountains are not nearly as lush as the Marquesas. Ende is a port town on the south side of the island with 80,000 inhabitants. It is nestled in a bay protected by a peninsula that juts out. As we rounded the peninsula, we were amazing to see that there was a smoking volcano next to us on the shore. The highest peak wasn’t the one smoking, it was a smaller peak only half the size, maybe 500 feet tall. The smoke has a yellowish tint. There are yellow stains around the crest from the sulfur and a jagged line of reddish looking dirt with no vegetation that runs down the face, likely from where lava once flowed down.

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Once we rounded the corner Continue reading →

Selemat Jalan (Goodbye) Kupang

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Last night when we got back to the boat, it was rocking so much we felt like we were on passage in the South Pacific. This morning when we got up we were still undecided as to whether we should leave Kupang today or tomorrow. On the stay side was: after 8 days at sea, it would have been nice to stay anchored longer. There were more sights we could go see in Kupang to entertain ourselves. Eric’s eye was looking better after using some drops we had on board that soothe irritation, but it wasn’t completely healed and could need a different medicine. On the con side: it was rocky on board, the beach landings were not fun, and we were more interested in seeing sights in other places.

We headed to shore at noon where Continue reading →

2007 Reflections and Happy 2008!

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Wishing all of you and Happy, Healthy, Safe and Prosperous 2008!

We have been doing some reflecting on 2007. It has been the most amazing year of both our lives. The first four months we jumped hurdle after hurdle in trying to get ready to go. It seemed several times that obstacles might stop us, but then at the last minute we were able to overcome these obstacles, leaving a month behind schedule. We want to thank everyone who helped us overcome the various hurdles. We are so blessed to have had so many people help us along the way and we are thankful for your friendship, help, and support. We couldn’t have done it without all the help!

Since leaving we have been to 18 islands in the South Pacific, four places in Australia and one in Indonesia. We’ve been SCUBA diving in all kinds of amazing places, including beautiful reefs, caves, and shipwrecks. Of course, we have seen incredible amounts of sea life on our dives. We went swimming with dolphins and whales and sharks in the ocean. We have been to the rim of an active volcano and walked up a waterfall. We have seen many traditional Polynesian and Melanesian villages. We’ve done a lot of snorkeling, gone on many gorgeous hikes, and taken several island tours, including one on a go cart, one on horseback, and one in a helicopter. We have been to several big celebrations for a country’s local holiday, and twice gotten within a few feet of the country’s president at these events. We anchored on a sunken sailboat by mistake and had to handle getting unstuck very carefully or we would have sunk, too. We got our anchor badly stuck on some coral another time. In Australia we saw all kinds of crazy land animals and ate crocodile and kangaroo. We have been in very rough seas, and once we almost got hit by lightening. Those are all the biggies, but there is much more, too. Here is a list of some of the highlights since leaving home.

  • Average speed: 5.94 knots
    Best Polynesian Food: Jenna’s Niuan Buffet, Niue
    Best Sea Animal Encounter: Tie between swimming with the whales in Vava’u, Tonga and swimming with the melon headed dolphins in Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
    Best Polynesian Dancing: Society Islands, French Polynesia
    Best Tattoo artistry: The Marquesas
    Best Wood Carvings: The Marquesas
    Best Yogurt: Mami Nova brand (we found in Tahiti, imported from France)
    Cleanest Fuel: Thursday Island, Australia
    Days on land/days at sea: 141/70 = 33% time at sea
    Deepest anchorage: 100 feet in Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva, French Polynesia
    Deepest dive Christi: 130 feet in Luganville, Vanuatu
    Deepest Dive Eric: 102 feet in Niue
    Favorite Dive Spot: Fakarava, French Polynesia
    Friendliest People: Niue
    Least expensive destination: Timor, Indonesia
    Longest passage at sea: 21 days from San Diego to Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
    Most amazing land destination: active volcano in Tanna, Vanuatu (found in blog under Efate)
    Most boats in a single anchorage: Tahiti, French Polynesia
    Most expensive destination: Bora Bora, French Polynesia
    Most expensive fuel: Cairns, Australia
    Most frustrating check in/check out experience: Fiji (we were unlucky. Most have no issues)
    Most remote from civilization: Suwarrow, Cook Islands
    Most Unique Land Animals: Tropical Dome, Cairns, Australia
    Restaurant with best value for the quality: Chef’s in Nadi, Fiji
    Restaurant with worst value for the dollar: Hotel Bora Bora, Bora Bora, French Polynesia
    Scariest Event: Getting the anchor stuck on the sunken sailboat in Apataki, French Polynesia
    Shallowest anchorage: 10 feet in Moorea, French Polynesia
    Strongest winds: 39 knots during a squall on passage from Australia to Indonesia
    Total distance traveled: 9,959 Nautical Miles (11,452 statute miles, 18,320 Kilometers)
    Total engine hours: 1676
    Total generator hours: 767
    Worst seas: Suwarrow to Niue passage (waves as high as 14 feet not fun!)

It will be very interesting to see what 2008 has in store for us. We hope it is just as good or even better than our wonderful 2007.

Bemo Tour of Kupang

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Christi slept for 14 blissful hours and woke up refreshed and feeling great. Eric slept for about 9 and woke up still feeling tired. We were supposed to meet Napa back at the Lavalon at 11:00. We figured we could get in a couple of hours of sightseeing first. By 08:30 it was so hot you would think you were in a furnace. Instead of sightseeing, we ran the air conditioning and enjoyed the cool until it was time to go.

Napa had said he would be by as soon as he was done with customs and immigration, about 11:00, maybe 12:00. He showed up at 1400 (2:00 pm) to let us know he thought it would be another hour.

While we were sitting there, we had been watching the public transit vehicles go by. They are low, small mini-vans called bemos. Normally, we pay virtually no attention at all to public transit vehicles, but the bemos are something of a spectacle. They are Continue reading →