We’ll start with the only scary event on the passage so far. Yesterday afternoon we saw a boat ahead of us in the distance coming towards us. We changed course. It was still coming towards us. We changed course some more. It was still coming towards us. It turned out to be Continue reading
Category Archives: South Pacific
Arriving in Karimata, Indonesia
Our good attitude about the “miserable” sea conditions didn’t last long. We were still very aware that it could be worse, but the fact of the matter is it is hard to maintain a good attitude when you are in such misery. Human nature. Sea conditions were identical as reported when we left. The good news is neither of us got sea sick, although Continue reading
Welcome to Ende City, Flores Island, Nusa Tenggara Province, Indonesia
08′ 50S by 121′ 30.8E – Flores Islands was conquered by the Portuguese prior to being taken over by the Dutch, hence the name. Flores, like Timor, has a large Christian population as a result of Portuguese missionary efforts. Before the Portuguese arrived, the natives of Flores had already been conquered by the kingdom of a nearby island, Sulawesi. The natives of Flores comprise five separate cultural groups that did not have a lot of interaction with one another due to the rugged terrain that made travel between areas extremely difficult.
The island of Flores came into view several hours before we arrived. At first it reminded us of the Marquesas, with large, dramatic volcanic mountains, the highest of the peaks enshrouded in mist. But as we got closer we saw that, while green with a lot of vegetation, the mountains are not nearly as lush as the Marquesas. Ende is a port town on the south side of the island with 80,000 inhabitants. It is nestled in a bay protected by a peninsula that juts out. As we rounded the peninsula, we were amazing to see that there was a smoking volcano next to us on the shore. The highest peak wasn’t the one smoking, it was a smaller peak only half the size, maybe 500 feet tall. The smoke has a yellowish tint. There are yellow stains around the crest from the sulfur and a jagged line of reddish looking dirt with no vegetation that runs down the face, likely from where lava once flowed down.
Once we rounded the corner Continue reading
2007 Reflections and Happy 2008!
Wishing all of you and Happy, Healthy, Safe and Prosperous 2008!
We have been doing some reflecting on 2007. It has been the most amazing year of both our lives. The first four months we jumped hurdle after hurdle in trying to get ready to go. It seemed several times that obstacles might stop us, but then at the last minute we were able to overcome these obstacles, leaving a month behind schedule. We want to thank everyone who helped us overcome the various hurdles. We are so blessed to have had so many people help us along the way and we are thankful for your friendship, help, and support. We couldn’t have done it without all the help!
Since leaving we have been to 18 islands in the South Pacific, four places in Australia and one in Indonesia. We’ve been SCUBA diving in all kinds of amazing places, including beautiful reefs, caves, and shipwrecks. Of course, we have seen incredible amounts of sea life on our dives. We went swimming with dolphins and whales and sharks in the ocean. We have been to the rim of an active volcano and walked up a waterfall. We have seen many traditional Polynesian and Melanesian villages. We’ve done a lot of snorkeling, gone on many gorgeous hikes, and taken several island tours, including one on a go cart, one on horseback, and one in a helicopter. We have been to several big celebrations for a country’s local holiday, and twice gotten within a few feet of the country’s president at these events. We anchored on a sunken sailboat by mistake and had to handle getting unstuck very carefully or we would have sunk, too. We got our anchor badly stuck on some coral another time. In Australia we saw all kinds of crazy land animals and ate crocodile and kangaroo. We have been in very rough seas, and once we almost got hit by lightening. Those are all the biggies, but there is much more, too. Here is a list of some of the highlights since leaving home.
- Average speed: 5.94 knots
Best Polynesian Food: Jenna’s Niuan Buffet, Niue
Best Sea Animal Encounter: Tie between swimming with the whales in Vava’u, Tonga and swimming with the melon headed dolphins in Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
Best Polynesian Dancing: Society Islands, French Polynesia
Best Tattoo artistry: The Marquesas
Best Wood Carvings: The Marquesas
Best Yogurt: Mami Nova brand (we found in Tahiti, imported from France)
Cleanest Fuel: Thursday Island, Australia
Days on land/days at sea: 141/70 = 33% time at sea
Deepest anchorage: 100 feet in Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva, French Polynesia
Deepest dive Christi: 130 feet in Luganville, Vanuatu
Deepest Dive Eric: 102 feet in Niue
Favorite Dive Spot: Fakarava, French Polynesia
Friendliest People: Niue
Least expensive destination: Timor, Indonesia
Longest passage at sea: 21 days from San Diego to Nuka Hiva, French Polynesia
Most amazing land destination: active volcano in Tanna, Vanuatu (found in blog under Efate)
Most boats in a single anchorage: Tahiti, French Polynesia
Most expensive destination: Bora Bora, French Polynesia
Most expensive fuel: Cairns, Australia
Most frustrating check in/check out experience: Fiji (we were unlucky. Most have no issues)
Most remote from civilization: Suwarrow, Cook Islands
Most Unique Land Animals: Tropical Dome, Cairns, Australia
Restaurant with best value for the quality: Chef’s in Nadi, Fiji
Restaurant with worst value for the dollar: Hotel Bora Bora, Bora Bora, French Polynesia
Scariest Event: Getting the anchor stuck on the sunken sailboat in Apataki, French Polynesia
Shallowest anchorage: 10 feet in Moorea, French Polynesia
Strongest winds: 39 knots during a squall on passage from Australia to Indonesia
Total distance traveled: 9,959 Nautical Miles (11,452 statute miles, 18,320 Kilometers)
Total engine hours: 1676
Total generator hours: 767
Worst seas: Suwarrow to Niue passage (waves as high as 14 feet not fun!)
It will be very interesting to see what 2008 has in store for us. We hope it is just as good or even better than our wonderful 2007.
Travel Summary April 2007 to December 2007
United States of America to Australia
The maps show the approximate route Kosmos has made. These are straight “point to point” lines, and necessarily our exact path. For example we headed a bit more south on our first passage than the line shows.
- Dana Point, California, USA
W117°41, N33-27
Feb 27 – May 20, 2006
commissioning process - Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico
W116-37, N31-51
May 20 – Sep1, 2006 - San Diego, California, USA
W117-14, N32-42
Sep 1, 2006 – Apr 28, 2007
Trip to Catalina Island - Taiohe, Nuka Hiva, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
W140-6, S8-55
May 19 – Jun 1, 2007
Island tour, horseback riding, Marquesan Feast - Anaho, Nuka Hiva, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
W140-05, S8-50
Jun. 1 – Jun.3 & Jun 27, 2007
Hiking, swimming with dolphins - Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
W138-40, S10-27
Jun. 4 – Jun. 6 & Jun 28, 2007
Hike to waterfall - Manihi, Tuomotu Islands, French Polynesia
W146-02, S14-28
Jun 9 – Jun. 19 & Jun. 29 – Jul. 1, 2007
SCUBA diving, hiking - Apataki, Tuomotu Islands, French Polynesia
W146-25, S15-20
Jun. 19 – Jun. 25 & Jul. 2 & Jul. 6, 2007
Kosmos stuck on a sunken sailboat, hiking, snorkeling - Noth Fakarava, Tuomotu Islands, French Polynesia
W145-49, S16-04
Jul 6 – Jul 19, 2007
SCUBA diving, bike ride around island - South Fakarava, Tuomotu Islands, French Polynesia
W145-24, S16-30
Jul 19 – Jul 24, 2007
Snorkeling - Tahiti, Society Islands, French Polynesia
W149-38, S17-33
Jul 25 – Aug. 6 & Aug. 10, 2007
Heiva cultural festival, island tour - Moorea, Society Islands, French Polynesia
W149.51, S17.29
Aug 6 – Aug. 10, 2007
Island tour, snorkeling - Tahaa, Society Islands, French Polynesia
W151.20, S16.35
Aug 14 – 16, 2007
Island tour, snorkeling - Bora Bora, Society Islands, French Polynesia
W151.45, S16.31
Aug. 16 – 29, 2007
Island tour, snorkeling - Suwarrow, Cook Islands
W163-6, S13-14
Aug 31 – Sep. 11, 2007
Snorkeling, diving, visit to bird sanctuary island - Niue
by W169-55, S19-00
Sep 12 – 21, 2007
Diving, cave explorations, island tour - Vava°u, Vava°u Islands, Kingdom of Tonga
W174-00, S18-39
Sep. 26 – Oct. 11, 2007
Diving, island tour on a go kart tour, hiking, swimming with whales - Suva City, Viti Levu, Mamanuca Islands, Fiji
E178-25 E, S18-07
Oct. 12 – 16, 2007 - Nadi & Lautoka Cities, Viti Levu, Mamanuca Islands, Fiji
S17° 46 by E177° 23 & 17° 36S by 177° 27E
Oct. 17- Oct. 25 & Oct 31 – Nov.1, 2007
Island tour, helicopter ride, day visits to nearby islands - Vanua Levu, Mamanuca Islands, Fiji
E177° 03, S17° 27
Oct. 25 – Oct 27, 2007
Hiking, diving - Waya, Yasawa Islands, Fiji
E177° 08, S17° 20
Oct 27 – Oct 31, 2007
Hiking - Efate, Shepherd Islands, Vanuatu
E168° 18, S17° 44
Nov 3 – Nov 13, 2007
Island tour, visit to volcano, waterfall - Aore and Espirtu Santo, Shepherd Islands, Vanuatu
15° 35S, 167° 08E
Nov 13 – Nov 19, 2007
SCUBA Diving on WWII wrecks - Cairns, Queensland, Australia
S16° 55, E145° 46
Nov 21 – Dec 7, 2007
SCUBA diving, boat haul out, animal sanctuary, butterfly sanctuary - Port Douglas, Queensland, Australia
S16° 28 by E145° 28
Dec 7 – Dec 11, 2007 - Lizard Island, Queensland, Australia
S14° 40 by E145° 26
Dec 11 – 17, 2007
Diving, snorkeling, hiking - Horn & Thursday Islands, Torres Straits, Australia
10° 35S by 142° 14E
Dec 18 – Dec 21, 2007