Hunkering Down in Crab Cay, Elizabeth Harbour, Exuma Islands, The Bahamas

Tuesday, January 27 — When Eric chose to anchor in front of town, he knew it would only be for one night as the wind was going to shift today, making this anchorage uncomfortable. He was planning to move over by Chat N Chill. As he looked at the updated forecast, he saw the blow predicted for Saturday night/early Sunday morning was pretty bad, with 30-knots of sustained winds and gusts to 40. Eric thinks this may be the biggest wind forecast he’s seen in The Bahamas. Eric studied the charts and determined that he wanted to ride the storm out in Crab Cay. Since the anchorage was small, he decided to move there today to ensure getting a spot.

This morning, Eric and Keith went to shore first thing. When they left Kosmos at 0650, the anchorage was flat and calm. They went to the grocery store in the hopes that maybe they had gotten in more inventory, but they still didn’t have eggs or bread. When Eric and Keith returned to Kosmos at 0720, the wind had already shifted and picked up, and the anchorage was already getting rolly. It was crazy how fast the conditions had changed! Since Kosmos was already mostly ready to go and they towed the dinghy, they pulled up anchor right away.

In the image below, they started from basically where the Exuma Markets was, went to the channel that was dredged to the right of Crab Cay (the darker blue line), and anchored in the dredged area on the right side of Crab Cay (the darkest blue blob) at about 0815. The lighter blue blob under the darker blue one was deep enough for catamarans, but it wasn’t deep enough for Kosmos. We’d been told that someone had started to put in a marina into this cove, but abandoned the project midway.

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Transits to San Diego, California and Georgetown, Great Exuma Island, The Bahamas

On Monday, January 26, the alarm went off at 0545. Christi hurriedly showered, dressed, and packed up the last minute items. We pulled up anchor at 0645 and transited the one mile to the Staniel Cay Marina. The sun rose while we were in transit.

We reached the dock at 0700. No boat had come in to the end-tie, so the dock was clear and all went as planned. Here was Kosmos on her way to Georgetown after dropping Christi off.

Christi started walking the half mile to the airport, and the first golf cart to drive by picked her up. She appreciated not having to do the walk. The airport was tiny.

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Returning to the Big Majors Anchorage, Exuma Islands, The Bahamas

Sunday, January 25 — Christi needed to fly to San Diego to take care of “life chores.” Most cruisers flew in and out of Georgetown for a slew of good reasons. However, we opted for Staniel Cay because it had better logistics for our tentative cruising plans. A large numbers of families were planning to start another flotilla to go to the Ragged Islands at about the same time that Christi needed to be in San Diego. Eric was planning to go to the Raggeds with them.

Now we know that there was a channel that was deep enough for us to get to the Raggeds from Georgetown, but at the time we booked the flight (when we were in Nassau), we thought that the only channels deep enough were via Staniel and Long Island. If Christi flew out of Georgetown, Eric and Keith would either have to go back north towards Staniel to a cut out to the ocean, or they’d have to go south around Long Island. Either way, it added a lot of extra miles. To minimize mileage, we’d chosen to book the flight out of/in to Staniel. Eric and Keith would drop Christi off at Staniel, join the other families in the Raggeds, then leave a little early to pick her back up when she returned. 

Yesterday morning, five family boats left for the Raggeds, as planned. However, the rest of the group bowed out since it looked like the weather was not going to be good. The anchorages apparently weren’t very well protected from the direction that the winds were forecast to come from, so if the forecast was accurate, it would be two weeks of uncomfortable anchorages.

Since we hated rolly anchorages, Eric and Keith bowed out, too. Eric decided the best place to ride out the coming weather was in Georgetown. We looked into changing Christi’s flight to/from Georgetown, but the airline we’d booked with, Makers Air, didn’t fly into Georgetown. 

So this morning at 1030, we pulled up anchor to make a 4-hour trip north to Staniel to drop off Christi, then tomorrow Eric and Keith would make a 10-hour trip back south to Georgetown. It was ironic that they added an extra 8-hours of total transit time to their trip to Georgetown when the whole reason we didn’t book Georgetown in the first place was to shave off those extra hours from the trip to the Raggeds. And, of course, they were going to have to make the 10-hour trip back north to pick Christi up. 

After SCUBA diving yesterday, Eric had rinsed all the gear and left it all in the cockpit to dry, intending to put it away this morning. This morning, a small squall came through that brought a quick, hard rain. In good news, the hard rain gave us a pretty good boat washing. In bad news, it made all the gear wet. We didn’t want to put it away wet, as it was likely to mold, so we just left it all in the cockpit for the passage.

Eric took the same course out of Rudder that we’d taken in. Here is another shot of the channel, and it was equally narrow on the other side. Being that close to the shallows was nerve wracking!

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Snorkeling and Diving The Piano at Rudder Cay, Exuma Islands, The Bahamas

Just before the sunrise on Friday, January 23

A popular tourist attraction in the area was a statue of a mermaid about to play a piano that David Cooperfield had sunk for an activity for his resort guests. After Christi and Keith finished school, Eric and Keith snorkeled the statue with Bogumilia.  

We’d read that the statue was hard to see while snorkeling because it was kind of deep, and they recommended going at low tide, when it was only about 10-feet down, for the best views. While they could see it, it was tough. Low tide meant a strong current, and it took a lot of strength to stay in place over the statue in order to get a good look at it. From what they could see, it appeared the statue was a 1:1 scale of a person and a grand piano.

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Moving to Musha Cay and then Rudder Cut Cay, Exuma Islands, The Bahamas

Wednesday, January 21 — This morning we woke up to find that the weather was not what was forecast. It was supposed to be nice, but it was actually windy and rainy. We’d planned to go hiking with Bogumila on shore, but hiking was canceled due to the rain.

The kids in our anchorage got together onboard one of the boats for about 45-minutes, then all the catamarans left to go to an anchorage called Rudder Cut Cay. We didn’t follow because the pass into Rudder was one of those shallow passes that we could only go through at high tide — and high tide had already passed.

After they left, the wind shifted direction by a little bit, and the anchorage went back to uncomfortable. We were worried about how much the wind would pick up overnight and how uncomfortable it may get. Not long after we’d started to worry about how uncomfortable it was going to get, Tiki Tour texted that they weren’t going to go all the way to Rudder tonight. They were going to spend the night in an anchorage called Musha Cay. They’d finish the trek to Rudder Cay tomorrow.

Eric checked to make sure it was a suitable route/anchorage for us and that we could get there before dark. It was two hour ride, so if we hurried, we could make it in time. And there would be nothing scary between White Point and Musha. On an instant whim, we decided to follow Tiki Tour. We immediately got boat ready and left as quickly as we could. Since we’d never gotten the dinghy down, it went fast. We pulled up anchor at 1500.

After we left, we realized that we hadn’t taken a single photo of the White Point anchorage. We were waiting for better weather, and better weather never happened. From what we could see from the anchorage, it appeared to be all vacant land that looked the same as the rest of the Exumas.

We arrived at 1700. Visually speaking, it was a lovely anchorage, with several scenic islands around it. According to the internet, Musha Cay was a fancy private resort island owned by David Copperfield. Per the website “David Copperfield… uses Musha Cay as a test lab for his creative pursuits, then shares these unexpected adventures with you and your guests.”

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