Passage to Bali, Crete and Visiting the Family

Now that it was once again safe to run the engine, we pulled out first thing yesterday morning to go to the anchorage in Bali, Crete. In the bay at Agios Nickolaos, we were protected from the wind and big seas. As soon as we rounded the corner to leave the bay, we were smacked with 30 knots of wind on the nose and big waves that smashed into the bow relentlessly. This lasted about 2 hours before things started to calm down. The wind dropped to the low 20’s and the wave force reduced enough that we could open up the pilot house doors. It became an overall OK ride since the waves are not as steep and rapid as the last few trips we have made.

After 10 3/4 hours of paralleling the north shore, we pulled into the anchorage. We have long dreamed of the day we would pull up to Costa’s and Maria’s hotel and drop anchor outside their door. It was an exciting moment for us. And for them, too. Maria said was thrilled when she glanced out the window and saw Kosmos in the bay. She said she frantically waved to us, but we didn’t see it.

The wind was coming at just the right angle to make the anchorage rolly. To make matters worse, there were two speed boats doing circles around us. One pulling people on inflatable tubes, the other pulling parasailers. Argh. Paravanes were definitely a must in here. We put out the paravanes and brought down the dinghy. Getting the dinghy down in the rocking bay was not easy. We can’t remember if we have mentioned this or not, but we think that the paravanes make Kosmos look like she has a force field around her, like if you get too close you will be zapped with a tremendous electrical shock. We always laugh about it when they are down.

imgp6141-small.JPG

We puttered over to the small port. Maria told us Continue reading →

Welcome to Izmir, Turkey

Izmir, formerly called Smyrna, was occupied by humans between 6500BC and 4000 BC. It was settled by Greeks around the 10th century BC. It is believed that the famous author Homer was born in Smyrna. In 95 AD, the apostle St. John wrote a letter addressed to seven fledgling churches located in what is now western Turkey, Smyrna being one of them. The letter was canonized as part of the bible and is called The Book of Revelation. Under the Ottomans, Smyrna emerged as an important port city and became multi-national and contemporary. They also exported many popular products to Europe, such as raisins, figs, and carpets, and were known for their unique musical style. Smyrna was the center of the war between the Turks and Greeks post WWI, which left the city completely destroyed. Today it is the third largest city and second largest port in Turkey.

We were still on the main highway, and we drove about half way around the bay before we realized we were lost. We pulled over at a gas station and asked for a map. No maps. Eric remembered that he could pull up a map on his cell phone. He expertly navigated his way into downtown using the cell phone. From what we could see, there were sections of town from the turn of the century that were neglected and dilapidated, and sections of town that are brand new and gorgeous, and everything in between. The buildings here are colorful, which is a stark contrast to Bodrum where they are all white. The bay has a large commercial container port area that dominates a big section of the bay. There is a fleet of military ships in the bay near the container port area. The roads are really great — wide and well maintained, with excellent signage. All the streets are two ways, many with nicely landscaped medians. The drivers are just as bad, though, and driving is still pretty scary. And, despite the fact that this is a huge, contemporary city, we saw goats running in the road at one point. Here is a typical street in downtown.

imgp5893-small.JPG

We had skipped lunch and were starved, so we made a stop for food at a little hole in the wall along one of the main roads. The boy behind the counter spoke no English at all. He pointed to Continue reading →

Dry Dock Work and Touring the Bodrum Peninsula

Our first task of the day was to wash out the chain locker. We cleaned out all the salt and dirt and picked up all the debris that had collected at the bottom. It wasn’t nearly as dirty as we had expected it to be, but there was more debris in the bottom than we expected, which affects the water’s ability to drain.

Once the locker was done, Eric Continue reading →

Kosmos Haul Out and More Turkish Food

Recently, someone e-mailed us from Bodrum, Turkey. He said he read our blog, admired our trip, that he owned a boat yard, Yatlift, and would happy to be of service if we needed work done. He generously offered to haul us out for free. Wow. We have mentioned a couple times now that we really needed to give Kosmos some more attention. We weren’t planning on taking her out of the water to do the work, but this was an opportunity way too good to pass up. Most of the work to be done would be easier out of the water than in.

Yesterday we spent the day preparing for the haul out. Christi did laundry and housework. Eric found and read the manuals pertaining to the various jobs he was planning on doing, and also gathered together the tools, which required some digging into storage spaces.

We did go out to breakfast and dinner. For breakfast, we got a traditional Turkish meal, which consists of one egg, cheese, sliced meat, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, white bread, honey, butter and a cup of tea.

imgp5749-small.JPG

For dinner, we tried coban kovurma, which turned out to be Continue reading →